tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-65389625894947961912024-03-06T12:03:07.082-08:00The Livestock Conservancy in ActionThe Livestock Conservancyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16073377918701443072noreply@blogger.comBlogger107125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6538962589494796191.post-5043084076806439722019-12-02T09:24:00.000-08:002019-12-02T09:24:43.000-08:00Working With Karakul Wool<center>
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<i>Letty Klein has been raising Karakul sheep for almost 40 years and offers her advice on working with this rare wool. </i><br />
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Karakul fiber comes in many colors; it is a coarse strong double-coated rug wool that felts in the blink of an eye! In fact I think this fast-felting trait is half the problem people have when washing a raw Karakul fleece.<br />
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It is not next-to-skin soft and it’s not meant for use in a blanket, unless a saddle blanket. Karakul is rug wool from perhaps the oldest breed of sheep -- think Persian Carpets. They have worn well for hundreds of years.<br />
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Braiding a rug from the roving is the best use of the fiber.<br />
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To spin from roving just draft a bit, treadle slowly, don’t over-spin, and in fact practice your long-draw!<br />
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So many possibilities to cherish, work with the color variations, don’t hide them. The yarn on the left has orange noils carded into the roving; this was used as the weft in an award-winning woven rug.<br />
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To spin-in-the-grease, which is my favorite, tease the raw locks apart with your fingers. Just fluff it, and let the wheel pull the fibers in as they come.<br />
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If you are spinning a lamb fleece, just leave the little birth-curls on the ends of the locks to stick out adding a unique texture and color variation to the yarn. If the wool seems a little sticky, a few seconds in the microwave will soften the grease, a tip told me by the late Glen Eidman.<br />
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<h3>
Washing a raw fleece</h3>
Be careful! No agitation and no water temperature changes! For a small amount just lay the locks in a salad spinner or strainer, immerse in hot soapy water for a few minutes, then spin out the soapy water and move the basket to rinse water of the same temperature, spin again and dump onto a towel to dry.
Deborah Niemannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10754242197245805551noreply@blogger.com26tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6538962589494796191.post-42044319659955687892019-07-31T07:48:00.000-07:002019-07-31T19:48:17.577-07:00Selecting a Raw Fleece<h4>
By Kathy Kravits</h4>
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Fiber is available in different forms from raw wool to roving and yarn. There are times when fiber artists may choose a particular fiber and fiber preparation for a specific project, and there are times when the fiber alone drives the choice. This article will address the fundamentals of selecting a quality wool fleece suitable for producing yarn that can be used to create textiles.
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<h2>
Selecting a Fleece
</h2>
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Most of us have had the experience of falling in love with the appearance of a fleece and the feel of it against our hands. While these are important signs of the potential of a fleece to make a wonderful product, they are only the first indicators of the suitability of the fleece for the project planned by the fiber artist.
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The characteristics that should be assessed in order to determine whether a particular fleece has the potential to produce a yarn that can be successfully used to create a particular textile product. These characteristics include:<br />
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<ol>
<li>Health and Hand</li>
<li>Staple</li>
<li>Character</li>
<li>Contaminates</li>
</ol>
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<h2>
Health and Hand</h2>
A healthy animal is more likely to produce a quality fleece. When selecting a fleece, it is important to understand that many things can affect the wool, such as the breed, age (the younger the animal the more likely the fleece is to have desirable characteristics), gender, breeding activity including recent pregnancy, nutrition, coated or not, and environmental factors such as weather extremes, over-crowding, etc. The smell of the fleece should be considered as a healthy sheep will produce a fleece that smells pleasantly “woolly”. A sharp off-putting scent would suggest that the fleece may not have been stored properly or that the animal was not healthy.<br />
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Hand is a subjective experience of softness and fineness that is pleasing to the fiber artist. It is an important characteristic because it prompts the artist to consider the feel of the fiber and whether or not it is right for the intended project. It also can indicate that the fleece is healthy. A fleece with an unpleasant hand (e.g. the fibers feel dry, coarse, etc.) may not be suitable for the planned project.<br />
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<h2>
Staple</h2>
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The staple is the length of the fiber from the cut end to the tip of the lock. <br />
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<h4>
Length </h4>
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The length of the staple is influenced by breed, age of the animal, time between shearing, nutrition, and other environmental stressors. Most hand spinners find that a 3-5 inch staple length is suitable for home preparation and hand spinning. Longer staple lengths may be successfully prepared at home and by the hand spinner with some modifications in cleansing strategies. Shorter staple lengths may also be prepared by hand spinners with careful attention to the method of carding/combing used.<br />
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<h4>
Strength</h4>
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The fiber must be strong in order to produce a yarn that will be sturdy and capable of being used in a variety of different projects. Staple strength may vary across the fleece. For example, along the top of the back the fiber is exposed to direct sunlight which may dry it out and weaken it. There is a reasonably simple technique for testing staple strength.
After politely requesting to see the entire fleece rolled out, ask permission to select fibers for testing from the blanket (one sample from each side of the blanket), one from the neck, and one from near the belly. Never open a fleece or remove fiber without asking permission.<br />
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Hold the fibers with one hand at the cut end and one at the tip. Place your hands together and then pull them apart sharply. The fiber should feel strong and resilient and make a sound that is clear and resonant. Should the fibers from the body of the fleece break, then it should not be selected. Breakage at the tips does not necessarily mean the fleece cannot be used, but will require thoughtful preparation.<br />
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<h4>
Breaks</h4>
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Breaks in the fiber occur for several reasons. They can reflect poor health of the sheep, nutritional deficiencies, and environmental stressors such as prolonged heat, overcrowding, and competition for grazing. Breeding and pregnancy can affect the fleece of both males and females. <br />
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A fleece with breaks in the staple distributed throughout will continue to break during processing and will not make a strong yarn. Breaks limited to certain areas of the fleece such as along the back and at the tips may be considered, but will require aggressive skirting and sorting in order to result in strong usable fiber. <br />
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<h2>
Character</h2>
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<h4>
Crimp</h4>
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Crimp is a configuration of the individual fibers of the fleece. The fibers with crimp form waves that can be tightly or loosely organized. Crimp is measured by the number of waves per inch with the increased number of crimp being associated with increased fineness. It is desirable to have a well-organized, consistent crimp throughout the individual staples and fleece. <br />
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Crimp is associated with the elasticity of the fibers. Elasticity is a special quality of wool fiber that allows the fibers to be stretched and then to return to their previous length. From a project point of view, this allows garments made from wool to tolerate and recover from all forms of stretch and use. <br />
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<h4>
Luster </h4>
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Luster is the ability of the fiber to reflect light. Luster is associated with the breed, less crimp in the fiber and a larger diameter of the individual fibers.<br />
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<h4>
Color</h4>
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Color is associated with breed. White ranges from creamy to bright white. All colored fleeces should be consistent with the breed standard. Many sheep have a variation in color throughout their fleece. It is the artist's decision how to respond to this circumstance. By combining all the variations in color, a richly variegated yarn can be produced. The artist who has a specific project in mind may elect to sort the different colors into separate groupings in order to accommodate the design goals of the project. It is important to approach the preparation of colored fleeces with design goals in mind.<br />
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<h2>
Contaminants</h2>
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Fleeces that are contaminated with large amounts of vegetable matter, insects, or other contaminants should be carefully considered before being selected for a project.<br />
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<h2>
Key Points </h2>
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• Choose a fleece you love.<br />
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• Consider the requirements of the product to be created when choosing a fleece.<br />
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• Objectively assess for health and hand, staple, character, and contaminates across the entire fleece.<br />
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<h2>
About the author</h2>
Kathy Kravits has been involved in fiber arts since teaching herself to knit at nine years old. She has developed a love for all aspects of fiber arts including spinning, weaving, and knitting. Spinning is particularly fascinating to her because it allows her to create unique yarns for specific projects.
Kathy has taught basic spinning courses and tapestry weaving.
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<h2>
References</h2>
<br />
Austin, P. (2018). Sheep Fleece: Nature’s Best. <i>Hand Spinning: Essential Technical and
Creative Skills</i>. Pp. 49-67.<br />
<br />
Fournier, N. and Fournier, J. (1995). About Wool. <i>In Sheep’s Clothing: A Hand Spinner’s
Guide to Wool</i>. Pp. 15-21.<br />
<br />
Larson, K. (2015). The Fine Art of Selection. <i>The Practical Spinner’s Guide: Wool</i>. Pp.10-16.
Deborah Niemannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10754242197245805551noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6538962589494796191.post-24445558506039820602019-07-28T17:09:00.000-07:002019-07-28T17:09:51.466-07:00Shepherd Profile: Steve and Sonja Pyne<div style="background-color: white; font-family: Verdana, "Lucida Sans Unicode", "Lucida Grande", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; margin-bottom: 1em !important; overflow-wrap: break-word; padding: 0px;">
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Steve and Sonja Pyne of Queen Creek, AZ, began raising Tunis sheep about ten years ago on The Farm at the End of the Road, and today they are fiber providers for other shepherds as well. Their flock name is Woolhalla.<br />
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<strong>Why did you decide to raise Tunis?</strong><br />
They had all the qualities we wanted – dual-purpose, striking good looks, polled, good mothering ability, and docile. What tipped the balance in our choice of breed was that Tunis are a Livestock Conservancy Watch List breed.<br />
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But the fleece and wool project grew beyond our own sheep as we began networking with folks in Arizona and other Four Corners states and realized how many of them kept, for various reasons, between 1 and 10 sheep of assorted breeds. Many considered the fiber to be a liability, feeling that a single fleece or two is more trouble than it’s worth, and so ended up discarding the fleeces, or even shearing the sheep only every other year. As I learned more about their flocks and was certain the sheep were not crosses but single breed sheep (if not registered or perhaps LC Priority listed), I offered to pay for the shearing and occasional other expenses for the health of the animal and take the fleece in payment, developing access to a wide variety of fleeces and fibers, far greater than what we could grow ourselves – it’s the ultimate spinner’s flock! Where we have permission from the shepherd, our packaging always reflects the name of the farm, as well as the name and photo of the sheep.</div>
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<strong>How many adults in your flock?</strong><br />
We have 13 ewes, a ram, and a wether.</div>
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<strong>What state are you in?</strong><br />
We are located in Queen Creek, Arizona between the Superstition and San Tan Mountains.<br />
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<strong>Why should a breeder sell their wool?</strong><br />
From a producer’s perspective, selling the wool allows the farmer to realize a bit more income and helps balance the scales for what it costs to raise that animal. From an environmental perspective, harvesting and actually using that resource means that it doesn’t go into a landfill. From an artistic perspective, single breed wool allows fiber artists to accentuate various qualities in their crafts, and a properly chosen breed of wool will highlight all the qualities the artist is looking for.</div>
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<strong>Why have you chosen to sell your wool in the form you do?</strong><br />
In the Southwest US, fiber mills and shearers are at a premium. Generally speaking, roving can be returned from a mill to a grower much faster than yarn can. In addition, unless you are independently wealthy (which we certainly are not!) there is a tremendous amount of money tied up in yarn at any given time, and choosing what kind of yarn to have made is always a scatter shot. At various times I have tried lace, fingering, sport, DK, worsted, bulky, all in both 2-ply and 3-ply and it didn’t matter which grist or ply I had chosen, it was the “wrong” one. I still have some beautiful yarn that I had made 5 or 6 years ago, and that represents money spent that cannot be used for some other farm and animal related project. I can’t out-guess what yarn will be most appealing, and roving fits just about all spinners.<br />
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<strong>What is one important thing you have learned about sheep management as it relates to selling their wool?</strong><br />
Clean well-kept wool from well cared for animals sells product. Period.</div>
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<strong>Why do you or do you not coat your sheep?</strong><br />
We do not coat our sheep. Temperatures here can reach 118 degrees during the summer months. Sheep don’t need another layer of anything on them, and they certainly don’t need the stress of having coats managed and changed during hot weather.</div>
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<strong>What is one surprising thing you learned about having sheep that are not coated?</strong><br />
We have discovered that through good husbandry and careful management, it is possible to work around the perceived need for coats on sheep. We feed about 50% grass and 50% alfalfa in the summer. The sheep are fed at specific times in specific ways, and my husband specifically designed feeders that minimizes the possibility of the sheep spreading veg on themselves or each other, and maximizes the efficient use of the hay which ends up saving us money, as well.</div>
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<strong>What is one important thing you learned about selling your wool?</strong><br />
I have to give you two important things! First, we compare ourselves to an indie bookstore – there is no possible way to complete with the Big Box stores and discounters, but we will offer you the best and most personalized customer service there is. The second thing, however, is that the support and commitment of fiber artists means everything. Of course I acknowledge the financial support in the form of buying product, but perhaps even more important is the social and emotional support we feel from artists who are invested in the farm and the sheep and honestly value what we do, as we value what they do.</div>
Deborah Niemannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10754242197245805551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6538962589494796191.post-44778555567438820512019-05-29T04:00:00.000-07:002019-05-29T04:00:10.338-07:00Fiber Artist Profile: Candace Tresnak<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgtqxJKSBB_jKnOfN0C6J7p3v5bDBJDIgTFenORkHvn1tBP5WbBVkgFilP_2DsmL-U1y3jPZsHfQHC8WSPNY2Kr1PFZ2gKxSGr09YnJOW7FiRxfypoBD8F6ZpPypd_gFXAxHvDlZooOYNo/s1600/IMG_2921.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgtqxJKSBB_jKnOfN0C6J7p3v5bDBJDIgTFenORkHvn1tBP5WbBVkgFilP_2DsmL-U1y3jPZsHfQHC8WSPNY2Kr1PFZ2gKxSGr09YnJOW7FiRxfypoBD8F6ZpPypd_gFXAxHvDlZooOYNo/s400/IMG_2921.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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<b>What fiber art(s) do you participate in and for how long have you done each one?</b><br />
I started my journey into fiber arts about 4 years ago. I wanted to learn how to weave because I was really into babywearing my youngest daughter. I wanted to learn how all these threads became cloth. Then, I bought some fiber that wasn't plied and I bought a spinning wheel, because "it needed to be plied". That was in August of 2016. Then, I needed something to do with all the yarn I was (sort of) making. So, I learned how to crochet in the summer of 2017. Then I realized I didn't want to "waste" my yarn by using it for crochet, so I learned to knit in December odf 2018. I have tried a little felting here and there as well.
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<b>When did you start working with fiber from rare breeds of sheep?</b><br />
I bought quite a few fleeces before I went back to work - so in the summer of 2017. I purchased some Black Welsh Mountain, Jacob, Romedale (I have a number of entire fleeces from that breed), Shetland, as well as some Clun Forest. The first raw fleece I ever purchased was a Lincoln x. So, not eligible, but I think it retained much of the Lincoln traits.
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<b>What was your biggest surprise when you purchased your first rare breed wool?</b><br />
Nothing really. I have probably over 100 pounds of wool sitting around waiting for me to process it, so I think it would take a lot to surprise me.
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<b>Have you had any challenges purchasing wool directly from shepherds?</b><br />
Yes. I have had some difficulty locating certain breeds - the hair ones for sure. And Lincoln at the moment! The rest I have already purchased and it's washed or in progress.<br />
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<b>What do you love most about working with rare breeds?</b><br />
Learning about new and different wools!
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<b>What is your favorite wool from sheep on the Conservation Priority List and why?</b><br />
I'm surprised at how much I'm enjoying Karakul. I washed it, and when I went to comb it, things didn't go well. My go-to is combing, so I had to ask for tips. I ended up flicking the ends, running it through my picker, and I am going to card it.
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<b>What bit of advice would you give another fiber artists who is just starting to explore the world of rare breed wools?</b><br />
Be flexible! Understand that fleece is going to be different from one shepherd to the next. If possible, try to get two sources and see how much different they are! Also, sheep are dirty. You're probably not going to get coated fleece (and if you are - it's going to cost a lot more). Enjoy and embrace the process!Deborah Niemannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10754242197245805551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6538962589494796191.post-13609930005104091282019-05-22T07:00:00.000-07:002019-05-30T06:53:53.697-07:00Shepherd's Profile: Kim Day<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7sdUO7qUfo3j7sKfdhKT1XvsgWNud27KKzHfwDVrx57w1xMl2S9g-bSEGxf4hAOb8UflVyJL53sLMR22SdlZjwMDo3RgFks5k4LGHrWplL5tQ_ufaOKOa_TGc_lAUKgMXL3oiqcyztpku/s1600/Tunis.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="450" data-original-width="800" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7sdUO7qUfo3j7sKfdhKT1XvsgWNud27KKzHfwDVrx57w1xMl2S9g-bSEGxf4hAOb8UflVyJL53sLMR22SdlZjwMDo3RgFks5k4LGHrWplL5tQ_ufaOKOa_TGc_lAUKgMXL3oiqcyztpku/s400/Tunis.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>Kim and Dave Day of Red Rope Farm in Douglassville, PA has been raising Tunis since 2006. Their son added Jacob sheep to their flock in 2017.</i><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhik8VnWtjZSf5qpDtEnFLI44j9nlj17twkybFzps4HGispVdn_pWAXOa3K8OMXJbdUh3ObDGOGON-IdP5hbz3CWpMP9CFFchkASgFXSP5y54WDdaX4hoDCb_LfrJQVkCTyRyiWy2Xqt29q/s1600/Tunis+and+Jacob.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="508" data-original-width="800" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhik8VnWtjZSf5qpDtEnFLI44j9nlj17twkybFzps4HGispVdn_pWAXOa3K8OMXJbdUh3ObDGOGON-IdP5hbz3CWpMP9CFFchkASgFXSP5y54WDdaX4hoDCb_LfrJQVkCTyRyiWy2Xqt29q/s400/Tunis+and+Jacob.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tunis and Jacob grazing in the pastures</td></tr>
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<h3>
<br />Why should a breeder sell their wool?</h3>
Any shepherd who raises wool sheep should definitely sell their wool crop. Wool is a renewable source and sheep produce it yearly, as long as they live. Wool is a wonderful fiber that insulates and wicks moisture. With so many breeds of sheep there is a type of wool fiber for every project, from rugs and tapestries to baby sweaters and lace shawls to felted baskets and purses. By increasing our use of wool fibers we may lessen our dependence on synthetics, and therefore, help our environment as a result.
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivc3pvBcooDYYxbdjPUB2CCqxCe_TdVfxI56xCuioq2CqREv8JXIh9kauV_xR92y8NTSSvb3XVxKtcRd_AtKMeGvkwqS3mfsLALLk3oAOGGbvWQmN_wlxbem48eAmTs7gmoYxdyPdCfKbf/s1600/Raw+Tunis+Wool.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivc3pvBcooDYYxbdjPUB2CCqxCe_TdVfxI56xCuioq2CqREv8JXIh9kauV_xR92y8NTSSvb3XVxKtcRd_AtKMeGvkwqS3mfsLALLk3oAOGGbvWQmN_wlxbem48eAmTs7gmoYxdyPdCfKbf/s400/Raw+Tunis+Wool.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tunis raw wool</td></tr>
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<h3>
<br />Why have you chosen to sell your wool in the form you do (raw, roving, yarn, etc)?</h3>
We sell our wool as raw fleeces,roving and yarn. By giving different choices we hope to appeal to a wider group of people. Some like to process their wool from beginning to finished product, while others prefer to spin or work with yarn that's been spun for them.
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibp3Pl4HJSbldVkkp-i1V14gCyRMz2OLmaztaPgTCgK-6ja2UdTnrrGRYK4u-fXru-yV8pjxew1hVsoWt_SfzSBuzguIrw0LxunVlP6Ql7Cff3HpiTPJ0S6-ohdKQBwX8we60MLVyuAE0_/s1600/Tunis+Roving+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibp3Pl4HJSbldVkkp-i1V14gCyRMz2OLmaztaPgTCgK-6ja2UdTnrrGRYK4u-fXru-yV8pjxew1hVsoWt_SfzSBuzguIrw0LxunVlP6Ql7Cff3HpiTPJ0S6-ohdKQBwX8we60MLVyuAE0_/s400/Tunis+Roving+%25282%2529.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tunis roving</td></tr>
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<h3>
<br />What is one important thing you have learned about sheep management as it relates to selling their wool?</h3>
In order to sell wool (in any form) to fiber artists, you need to keep the fleeces clean and care for each sheep's health. You need to be watchful about pasture health so that thistles and burrs don't invade fields and find their way into fleeces. Hay needs to be fed in a manner so that the sheep don't get covered in it, which sometimes means building your own hay mangers. Illness or parasite load can affect the structural integrity of a fleece, so you need to look your sheep over each day. When the sheep's body is under stress, it funnels energy and nutrition to fight that stressor rather that to grow their fleece, leaving a weak area in the wool staple.
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<h3>
What is one surprising thing you learned about coating your sheep -- or having sheep that are not coated?</h3>
We coated our sheep for a few years but dealt with several fleeces felting under the coats. We decided it worked best for us to leave our sheep uncoated and focus on keeping their environment clean.
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLmjBU30QpcqygU7qmk0Oj_pV2xjHlFKlsr9cwbqlkbQojmCTLbNDNP_GxWyaEyxkwc8ROkWKnLfbT-Ue_6ldCo7EMKiGAt1B7zf7OavD-WMIKNvMEQevt9Epv116kerRkE51fIiTlzS5A/s1600/Tunis+yarn.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="451" data-original-width="800" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLmjBU30QpcqygU7qmk0Oj_pV2xjHlFKlsr9cwbqlkbQojmCTLbNDNP_GxWyaEyxkwc8ROkWKnLfbT-Ue_6ldCo7EMKiGAt1B7zf7OavD-WMIKNvMEQevt9Epv116kerRkE51fIiTlzS5A/s400/Tunis+yarn.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tunis yarn</td></tr>
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<h3>
<br />What is one important thing you learned about selling your wool?</h3>
You can't lump all wool into one category. Different breeds have different wool qualities and work best in a variety of projects.
Deborah Niemannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10754242197245805551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6538962589494796191.post-21503580596748951542019-05-16T15:25:00.000-07:002019-05-16T15:25:05.197-07:00Shepherd Profile: Deb Potter<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5DxFSo2jbYZEdOLvoUz99a_Uu5CmXazlvUcTzMu45XGpqdwUboEYvwF1n3kmmEdMH4aL56rMCtAQ7XsFWk9W5a5bc74ZcwCSa9HNCoe0rYLwZpUj_0mG9pOujzDkOhJPtN9w03nX5eY2h/s1600/Nacho+in+fleece.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="960" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5DxFSo2jbYZEdOLvoUz99a_Uu5CmXazlvUcTzMu45XGpqdwUboEYvwF1n3kmmEdMH4aL56rMCtAQ7XsFWk9W5a5bc74ZcwCSa9HNCoe0rYLwZpUj_0mG9pOujzDkOhJPtN9w03nX5eY2h/s400/Nacho+in+fleece.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>This is part of a series on shepherds who raise sheep on the Conservation Priority List. The opinions expressed do not necessarily reflect those of The Livestock Conservancy.</i><br />
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You can find Deb Potter of Merciful Hearts Farm on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/Merciful-Hearts-Farm-497585285432/" target="_blank">Facebook</a> and <a href="https://www.instagram.com/merciful_hearts_farm/" target="_blank">Instagram</a>.<br />
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<h3>
What breed do you have and how long have you had them? </h3>
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We have a handful of breeds that are on the list and have been raising sheep for 20 years here in Upstate South Carolina. We started with Tunis and have often leaned toward the breeds on your list. We currently have Jacob (5 adults), Hog Island (5 adults), Shetland (3 adults), Lincoln (2 adults), Cotswold (1 adult). We were also blessed to raise a Navajo Churro orphan several years ago and still have some of his fleeces. My husband is a part time <a href="https://www.facebook.com/Merciful-Hearts-Farm-Shearing-124374444906796/" target="_blank">shearer</a> (only about 75 farms) and shears for farms that have Clun Forest, Gulf Coast Native & Southdown. When others reach out to us asking for guidance in establishing their own flocks, we usually recommend they strongly consider breeds on the Conservancy list.
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<h3>
Why should a breeder sell their wool?
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Although the obvious answer would be that it brings in a little more money to offset farm costs, it goes a lot deeper. As fiber artists/makers/crafters explore wool it is nice to give them a choice beyond the few commercially popular choices. Most fiber artists love texture and it is easy to see an amazing array of textures, color variations and other aspects of rare wool to incorporate into their work. I've always been a storyteller so find that most of my customers love to follow my Instagram as well as hear my stories of the sheep and their backgrounds and history. It is also a good way for the community to support those of us trying to continue the legacy of these precious sheep. The movement to support local and smaller farms has also worked in our favor. We like to have products from our wool available for those reaching out to support local farmers.
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<h3>
Why have you chosen to sell your wool in the form you do (raw, roving, yarn, etc)?
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We sell raw fleece but I will also be selling my handspun as time allows. As it is, most of the people I directly encounter want the "complete experience" from fleece to finished project. I recently reached out to a local yarn shop that hosts a spinners group. I brought in fiber samples (raw & just washed up) from our various breeds and also spread a tarp out on the floor and dumped a freshly shorn and skirted Jacob fleece on it. We had a great time talking fiber characteristics and it also gave me an opportunity to explain the ups and downs of sheep farming. I do a very well attended weekly farmer market in downtown Greenville, SC so also use that time to educate visitors. That is where I will sell the bulk of my handspun. Not only do I have a local following for my yarns and other value added wool products, Greenville gets an amazing number of visitors literally from around the world. They are often looking for something easy to pack to take home from their trip. And they especially love something with a local connection or story.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_IShPb_JUyhz1xNehJ4q9LUXIVDT6_9Pb6zThQcoF0eYzYe2MaJX7wwZSZwqIwQqmoFUW4vnHTmKwBg53Nn9BH8zDtNtzhbyiXWmSCyxHJbpjlOUvsxL801K8YSIES_sDVcZ2nKRKpUJn/s1600/Razzle+%2526+Dazzle+on+pasture.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_IShPb_JUyhz1xNehJ4q9LUXIVDT6_9Pb6zThQcoF0eYzYe2MaJX7wwZSZwqIwQqmoFUW4vnHTmKwBg53Nn9BH8zDtNtzhbyiXWmSCyxHJbpjlOUvsxL801K8YSIES_sDVcZ2nKRKpUJn/s320/Razzle+%2526+Dazzle+on+pasture.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<h3>
What is one important thing you have learned about sheep management as it relates to selling their wool?
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As well as we manage the sheep in terms of diet, pasture, feeding process, etc. it is still in our very best interest to skirt fleeces dramatically and be very straightforward with the condition of fleeces and amount of VM. In the long run, it makes a lot more sense to sell a smaller amount of good quality clean fleece and have happy customers than to offload a bunch of fleece until your reputation and customer dissatisfaction catches up with you.
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<h3>
Why do you not coat your sheep?
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It is a lot of extra work and with our humidity and other issues we would be hard pressed to keep up with it all. Good on those who do - we just prefer not to.
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<h3>
What is one surprising thing you learned about having sheep that are not coated?
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Again, never wanting to compare our practices to others, we are able to produce enough quality fleece on healthy sheep that we are content. And I love to look across my pastures and see woolly sheep ;-)
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<h3>
What is one important thing you learned about selling your wool?
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A good fleece from an honest seller will give many returns in repeat business and new customer referrals. It is good to keep up with social media and understand that many fiber artists want to know "who" their fleece is. I try to provide a picture with every fleece and also a name and story. I am also quite straightforward about the challenges of shepherding as well as the joys! Much of what we do is relationship based - our relationships are with our sheep, others in our farm community, our customers and all that we may impact in person and online. Selling the wool is important; promoting sheep and wool in general is also something that we thoroughly enjoy!Deborah Niemannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10754242197245805551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6538962589494796191.post-81710386308491757572019-05-08T06:00:00.000-07:002019-05-08T06:00:10.894-07:00Shepherd Profile: Jason Seelow<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUh7qztGWXQjpqhCcrmibKlPvu_p_OjnPI93DzkHNvYMRAThX5V56S2rak7GWnEQFDsoaghFI5RxYw_U4bQ-3lLeqwfEsOKmTOQNBIHqEX5ymkEzprGu4SFysD7MzRfwYDozC4hA-J7dpM/s1600/image2+%25281%2529.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUh7qztGWXQjpqhCcrmibKlPvu_p_OjnPI93DzkHNvYMRAThX5V56S2rak7GWnEQFDsoaghFI5RxYw_U4bQ-3lLeqwfEsOKmTOQNBIHqEX5ymkEzprGu4SFysD7MzRfwYDozC4hA-J7dpM/s400/image2+%25281%2529.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>This is part of a series of Q&As with shepherds who raise sheep on the Conservation Priority List for wool. The opinions expressed by the shepherds do not necessarily reflect those of The Livestock Conservancy.</i>
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Jason Seelow is a fourth generation sheep farmer. He was raised in central Illinois on a grain and sheep farm. He moved to Iowa and now raises sheep with his wife and two children. They started raising Lincoln Longwools after 35 years of raising Rambouillets. The Lincolns are on the Conservancy's list in the "Threatened" category. They have nine ewes and a ram named Phil.
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"Our Lincoln flock is a new adventure that we purchased for our girls to show and raise," says Jason. "We like the Lincoln Breed because they are rare and need to be cared for. Also they are great mothers and gain well. The lambs are very hardy. The wool they produce is a nice long lustrous super strong tensile strength for carpet wool."
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<h3>
Why should a breeder sell their wool? </h3>
We get a satisfaction when someone can take our product and make something from it.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6IU1aIvJ90JcgFcY3b7iUChFIfz5yprXWsQrdoKBIvYxnhlXvTo-3yF8CKnv5gxROFFBV4Aq8e3Mwg178xQqNutTwX-6ftm4sTgvQBKq3tqAUwSZv4s5B-CUHSvOgSrZfFFqMqab9gCIR/s1600/image1+%25281%2529.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6IU1aIvJ90JcgFcY3b7iUChFIfz5yprXWsQrdoKBIvYxnhlXvTo-3yF8CKnv5gxROFFBV4Aq8e3Mwg178xQqNutTwX-6ftm4sTgvQBKq3tqAUwSZv4s5B-CUHSvOgSrZfFFqMqab9gCIR/s400/image1+%25281%2529.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<h3>
Why have you chosen to sell wool in the form you do? </h3>
We mainly sell raw wool, but we have a fiber mill close by that we work with that will process Roving, Combed top etc so a person can buy a fleece from me and I will hand deliver for free to the mill. They work with the mill to process into their choice of product.
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<h3>
Most important thing for management when selling wool is... </h3>
Clean wool sells better and can get more money for it.
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<h3>
Why do you coat your sheep? </h3>
We coat our sheep for 6-9 months of the year when we are feeding alfalfa hay. Hay chaff is one of the handspinners nemesis and so we do our best to prevent the contamination as good as we can.
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<h3>
What have you learned about coating sheep?</h3>
It can be a blessing and a curse at the same time. They do take a lot of management to maintain. Sewing up tears, washing, etc are important to maintain the coats. Also if the coat gets too tight as the wool grows it can make a fine wool felt as the coat rubs against the wool. The sheep will destroy the coat if there are sharp objects for them to catch on, so you need to go around the barn yard and fix any fence or problem areas. My first year using coats on our Rambouillets I didn’t take the coat off when the ewe had a lamb and the baby was caught in the coat strap and got strangled by mom. It was heartbreaking but we now remove the coat the first 2-3 days until the lamb gets more familiar with the environment.<br />
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What have you learned about selling wool? </h3>
Clean wool sells better and you can ask a premium for it. Every wool type has a purpose and it’s important to understand the limitations and exploit its benefits. Set your goals up and work with them. Deborah Niemannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10754242197245805551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6538962589494796191.post-84856186200194465152019-05-01T06:00:00.000-07:002019-05-01T06:00:07.869-07:00Fiber artist profile: Rebecca Kleinschmidt<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixgnxlKMcFqfA3dgSIqw2KeSpZZ8V2cEk3gRFgvvg1Tr9owXzc3BST14Nip9n2k_Ycm4abzUtaX7WW_LDnRAZ1ShZqTmu2he4RDMQTYTezbGHP6kIi1enPmqQ4kTbC9V2bHjYffDJ3ZjUt/s1600/sweaters.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="789" data-original-width="940" height="335" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixgnxlKMcFqfA3dgSIqw2KeSpZZ8V2cEk3gRFgvvg1Tr9owXzc3BST14Nip9n2k_Ycm4abzUtaX7WW_LDnRAZ1ShZqTmu2he4RDMQTYTezbGHP6kIi1enPmqQ4kTbC9V2bHjYffDJ3ZjUt/s400/sweaters.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>This is part of our series on fiber artists who are participating in Shave 'Em to Save 'Em.</i></div>
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<b>What fiber art(s) do you participate in and for how long have you done each one?</b><br />
Knitting and crocheting for over 40 years. Some weaving and felting for a very short time years ago.
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<b>When did you start working with fiber from rare breeds of sheep?</b><br />
This is my first time. I started spinning about 2 months ago and simply loving this initiative.
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<b>What was your biggest surprise when you purchased your first rare breed wool?</b><br />
How different it was versus commercial roving. The commercial wool I purchase seems more compact and needs to be divided to get a more consistent spin; it feels commercialized. Roving directly from the shepherds is lighter and feels softer. I am a very new spinner, so the wool that I purchased directly from the farmer is easier because I can see the individual staples better and the roving/combed top is processed in such that it does not need much separating. I just get it started and it almost spins itself!
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<b>Have you had any challenges purchasing wool directly from shepherds?</b><br />
Most shepherds are very responsive but the Hog Island roving I purchased was really dirty. It left a pile of dust on my lap and each inch had VM. 🙁
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIdLPSLGDyl0FALi2DY0Ucx85C2wo7tRXYWMfu3Tw6QDj18QUReGYi_-lQ0ocPxUoLz-VWJ1OnHyus97DzX8mnQI_kG7f49lOcp6T1FjjlOOCETfdGgyojKzk69gf0HktGnugs-Nz1i2rD/s1600/Rebecca.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="973" data-original-width="828" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIdLPSLGDyl0FALi2DY0Ucx85C2wo7tRXYWMfu3Tw6QDj18QUReGYi_-lQ0ocPxUoLz-VWJ1OnHyus97DzX8mnQI_kG7f49lOcp6T1FjjlOOCETfdGgyojKzk69gf0HktGnugs-Nz1i2rD/s200/Rebecca.jpg" width="170" /></a><b>What do you love most about working with rare breeds?</b> <br />
The variance in the different breeds. Learning what fiber/breed type is best for which project. Some of the wool is much lighter or softer than others. Examples: yarn spun from CVM/Romeldale is much lighter and ’spongey’ compared to yarn spun from Shetland. The CVM would be better suited for next to skin wear versus Shetland geared more towards outerwear or winter accessories such as mittens or hats.
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<b>What is your favorite wool from sheep on the Conservation Priority List and why?</b><br />
Although I like most of them, Tunis and Cotswold are my favorites so far. They are easy to spin for a newbie like myself.
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<b>What bit of advice would you give another fiber artists who is just starting to explore the world of rare breed wools?</b><br />
Give it a try! Even spinners that have been working with fiber for many years are experiencing something new.Deborah Niemannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10754242197245805551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6538962589494796191.post-54615241236080761142019-04-24T06:00:00.000-07:002019-04-24T06:00:15.807-07:00Fiber artist profile: Ginger Briggs<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiftolvqwP6b88R90hSnIkHmLxy2leqD2iYEOOXTD1r80NIZPSR4n6aV9EkZW-fP4cOH5T3UeUWEBXwd1oyUqYn2S0SPZFiKYMnOxajyBoX0lh1TT8ZzIogjdbp8RB91e1OMn2JJmz3Ul08/s1600/FB_IMG_1552183031763.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="1440" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiftolvqwP6b88R90hSnIkHmLxy2leqD2iYEOOXTD1r80NIZPSR4n6aV9EkZW-fP4cOH5T3UeUWEBXwd1oyUqYn2S0SPZFiKYMnOxajyBoX0lh1TT8ZzIogjdbp8RB91e1OMn2JJmz3Ul08/s320/FB_IMG_1552183031763.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b>What fiber art(s) do you participate in and for how long have you done each one?</b><br />
I have been crocheting off and on for 45 years. I started at 7 and like most of us was taught by my grandmother and a neighbor. I still have all my grandmother's hooks and needles. I started loom knitting about 3 years ago. I started weaving just 2 months ago. Because of Shave 'Em to Save 'Em, I have started working with a small loom, am learning how to spin and plan on learning how to make braided rugs. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvnEXTdY3WxQ_8XlqQe2qnjGklT8WREr9fIzJQctUUJ3mez7aYx8x_18oPXoaLkSsphrzoHngP2k01Btp1Zcm6NpcdJqCmHZY275CxjHNVOefSZKMeNsqfOtjWqrsyps4FiXYt6DGSDgWI/s1600/1480185744932965.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1268" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvnEXTdY3WxQ_8XlqQe2qnjGklT8WREr9fIzJQctUUJ3mez7aYx8x_18oPXoaLkSsphrzoHngP2k01Btp1Zcm6NpcdJqCmHZY275CxjHNVOefSZKMeNsqfOtjWqrsyps4FiXYt6DGSDgWI/s320/1480185744932965.jpg" width="253" /></a></div>
<b>When did you start working with fiber from rare breeds of sheep?</b><br />
About 5 years ago, Kelli Carruth Miller of A Sheep Like Faith (she is a Se2Se provider), a friend from high school, introduced me to GCN. She started her flock in Louisiana. I loved the history, never knew Louisiana even had a sheep history but there were a lot of shepherds here providing GCN wool during world wars 1 and 2 for blankets. GCN was the first non-commercial wool I ever used. <br />
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<b>What was your biggest surprise when you purchased your first rare breed wool?</b><br />
The beautiful natural color
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx_8XrGrXMkDs3I10ALqOJhtIPQN56-MwWcmhLioxgtjq85QZBk9td07ppD7bkNpZvrmNYLeK-DPMTTx-ht_LEpmLaWoYbe9azu4ulDw0SXQlSHfJDkNII3JJkGR6IbRRETgbEpDI5Jyg6/s1600/IMG_5476.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx_8XrGrXMkDs3I10ALqOJhtIPQN56-MwWcmhLioxgtjq85QZBk9td07ppD7bkNpZvrmNYLeK-DPMTTx-ht_LEpmLaWoYbe9azu4ulDw0SXQlSHfJDkNII3JJkGR6IbRRETgbEpDI5Jyg6/s320/IMG_5476.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<b>Have you had any challenges purchasing wool directly from shepherds?</b><br />
No, but I am noticing a lot of shepherds selling raw fleece or roving. I hope more yarn will be available this year.
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<b>What do you love most about working with rare breeds? </b><br />
The different textures and colors
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<b>What is your favorite wool from sheep on the Conservation Priority List and why? </b><br />
Gulf Coast Native because it was the first wool I used and it was from Louisiana. I have also fallen in love with Leicester Longwool and Jacob.
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<b>What bit of advice would you give another fiber artists who is just starting to explore the world of rare breed wools?</b><br />
Jump right in! I have really enjoyed working with the different wools and have met some wonderful people. The <a href="https://facebook.com/groups/se2se" target="_blank">Facebook group</a> is great. I am actually recognizing the different breeds of sheep by the photos the shepherds are posting! Deborah Niemannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10754242197245805551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6538962589494796191.post-82330818601353060882019-04-17T08:00:00.000-07:002019-04-17T08:00:03.298-07:00Shepherd Profile: Emily Hartman<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZQ7Tf_s2BArhplieAquCGuJQg9E5QOGvOF7-3yPti-ihcr5u-xrgSWxfeBUMy-bueYIZCLUMzoITHPk2WHBus7Od2_j6wTQv0Pl1m3bXkhFoWiTLCIEydtfLA19p8QU2H3qyMZkVBZpOY/s1600/Leicester+longwool.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="800" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZQ7Tf_s2BArhplieAquCGuJQg9E5QOGvOF7-3yPti-ihcr5u-xrgSWxfeBUMy-bueYIZCLUMzoITHPk2WHBus7Od2_j6wTQv0Pl1m3bXkhFoWiTLCIEydtfLA19p8QU2H3qyMZkVBZpOY/s320/Leicester+longwool.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leicester Longwool</td></tr>
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<i style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;">This is the fourth in a series of Q&As with shepherds who raise sheep on the Conservation Priority List for wool. The opinions expressed by the shepherds do not necessarily reflect those of The Livestock Conservancy. </i><br />
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<i style="background-color: white; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;">Emily Hartman raises Leicester Longwool sheep on her farm, <a href="https://hartmansfarmhousemarket.com/" target="_blank">Mrs. Hartman's Farmhouse Market</a>. You can also find her on <a href="https://facebook.com/HartmansFarmhouseMarket" target="_blank">Facebook</a> and Instagram @mrs.hartmansfarmhousemarket.</i><br />
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<b>Why should a breeder sell the wool from their sheep? </b><br />
The real question, is why wouldn't you? Here we have an amazing creature that provides us with not only meat and in many cases, milk... but also a useable, wearable, craftable of some sort, fleece. In my opinion, sheep are the triple threat of livestock and you can win no matter what!
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<b>Is it challenging to raise sheep with an eye towards selling their wool? Why or why not? </b><br />
Yes it can be. There are so many factors that play into the quality, that when people ARE interested in being put on a waiting list, it's hard to really know how much to expect. Unexpected illnesses can ruin a fleece in an animal that may have had an excellent fleece the year before. Sometimes they get into stuff. For example, my beautiful pure black ewe lamb decided to roll in a bunch of "stickers" on the way down the hill to get shorn. Her fleece was fairly clean up until that point. Also, in the case of Longwools you always ask yourself, should I shear once, or twice a year, because the end product is so different and generally used differently (long locks vs a more "avgerage" staple length). You have to be extremely vigilant to keep the creepy crawls such as lice and mites at bay. Especially when growing out those fleeces for a year. If you don't keep up, it's difficult to treat a sheep in full fleece.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh-1jnRMSZLFi8sq4lRmldakzgtjEHZSjwWRJXy26xhtJdxbXsfJ088rY_tjHFvBZgq7bgy4brBDMAjpo4R9MwrNW4xIhxr_2LTsNnJbG4KqajmpoMgIv3XIxZ2_ry61rRxFB7CKEegwAS/s1600/Mrs+Hartmans+wool.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="800" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh-1jnRMSZLFi8sq4lRmldakzgtjEHZSjwWRJXy26xhtJdxbXsfJ088rY_tjHFvBZgq7bgy4brBDMAjpo4R9MwrNW4xIhxr_2LTsNnJbG4KqajmpoMgIv3XIxZ2_ry61rRxFB7CKEegwAS/s320/Mrs+Hartmans+wool.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
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<b>Why have you chosen to sell your wool as raw fleece, roving, yarn, etc rather than in a different form? Or why have you chosen to do all of the above? </b><br />
Sort of piggybacking from the previous answer, I am doing my best to offer as wide a range of product as I can. I am attempting to hold a few sheep back from shearing to offer locks, washed and unwashed. I try to offer the unwashed first, and then offer washed and dyed as I get around to it. I think locks offer the largest amount of artistic freedom as there are so many things you can do with them. The great thing about Leicester Longwools is that the lambs fleeces can be next-to-skin soft, while the adults make beautiful lustrous wool perfect for outerwear. I am able to shear 2x a year, so I am trying to even it out so that winter/spring shear gets sent to the mill and summer shear left raw (any leftover summer fleeces get sent in to mill after the next shearing) My mill I send to requires a minimum amount for millspun yarn, but not for roving, and since at this point, I don't have much for lamb wool, that dictates that it gets separated out into roving, while the adult fleeces get combined into millspun. Summer fleeces, as I said, I sell raw. I bring them with me to the farmers markets, and it generates a lot of conversation.
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<b>What is one important thing you learned about sheep management as it relates to selling their wool? </b><br />
Sheep health is key. Nutrition, pest management, the whole works. A few sheep may require a little extra attention. If you don't have healthy sheep, you can't expect good wool.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Emily shears her own sheep so she can keep a closer watch on their health.</td></tr>
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<b>What is one surprising thing you learned about coating your sheep -- or having sheep that are not coated?</b><br />
Mine are not coated. And although I don't think I'd attempt an uncoated sheep of fine wool breeds, the Leicester Longwools (and I'm sure other longwool breeds) tend to actually stay fairly clean. You can shake them out a bit and you're in business. I think this also depends on the way you feed them as well, since overhead feeders will leave your sheep a mess. Mine are fed on the ground, and in their natural grazing position, they keep fairly clean. They're even cleaner in the summer when they can roam the pasture. If the pen was smaller, and not well maintained, they would be a mess in no time, no doubt.
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<b>What is one important thing you learned about selling your wool?</b><br />
People love to get to know your animals as you do. They love the story that goes with them. Since I don't have a brick and mortar store, it is important to put yourself out there. Since I don't have a store to present to people, my boxes arrive at their doorstep to represent me, so I always make sure my packaging is nicely presented. I think every little detail helps. When I'm at farmers markets, even if I don't sell the wool that day, people love to generate conversation about it and the sheep. Overall it's a LOT of work and also A LOT of fun.Deborah Niemannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10754242197245805551noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6538962589494796191.post-1150626521877065432019-04-12T11:08:00.000-07:002019-04-12T11:08:02.675-07:00Fiber Artist Profile: Fran Stafford<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyJo8hqPh1bc8I8pDhfN3XC6Ov-3TAJXGev_UvXkL-IqXwRWmmLepjf8rL-j3jUAKWkorw_iRxAiaNTlRCVvP_stb0i6crmmkjyzjzZtQOi3jxBR0mpM15TFpLUFiGE17nMok4slKtETyZ/s1600/IMG_20190312_093522.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="721" data-original-width="741" height="387" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyJo8hqPh1bc8I8pDhfN3XC6Ov-3TAJXGev_UvXkL-IqXwRWmmLepjf8rL-j3jUAKWkorw_iRxAiaNTlRCVvP_stb0i6crmmkjyzjzZtQOi3jxBR0mpM15TFpLUFiGE17nMok4slKtETyZ/s400/IMG_20190312_093522.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>This is the first in a series of posts profiling fiber artists who are participating in Shave 'Em to Save 'Em. Fran Stafford is one of only two people who have already spun at least 15 of the wools on the Conservation Priority List. You can find her online at <a href="http://cabincrafted.fangorn.space/" target="_blank">her blog</a>.</i></div>
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<b>What fiber art(s) do you participate in and for how long have you done each one?</b><br />
Crochet, started about 57 years ago and now only use it rarely.<br />
Knitting, started about 58 years ago, made one sweater poorly, quit until 15 years ago and took it up again, knitting mill spun yarn.<br />
Spinning with a drop spindle about 10 years ago, added a wheel, then more wheels beginning about 6 years ago. My preferred fiber art.<br />
Weaving on a small rigid heddle loom about 3 years ago, did not like it and sold it, but started Revolutionary War reenactment and built and weave on a box/tape loom, got a 5' tri-loom for Christmas and have made two shawls.
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVeS0BAjz279Oc9x280x6qBQOU0dr2zfc3VCWsc5qiwpatLgYYhadXsZoe7NUUcDT-rmRcQrBMsY6jZwiLN6vN0RjaBpaeO8_LI4-S_9LVOXmbD8kvUEFfsPLdveaC1fSexWAydC9F-tyK/s1600/mespinning.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="280" data-original-width="154" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVeS0BAjz279Oc9x280x6qBQOU0dr2zfc3VCWsc5qiwpatLgYYhadXsZoe7NUUcDT-rmRcQrBMsY6jZwiLN6vN0RjaBpaeO8_LI4-S_9LVOXmbD8kvUEFfsPLdveaC1fSexWAydC9F-tyK/s1600/mespinning.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fran spinning at her village's<br />centennial celebration of its<br />covered bridge</td></tr>
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<b>When did you start working with fiber from rare breeds of sheep?</b><br />
Without knowing they were rare breeds, I have been using Jacob, Shetland, and Leicester Longwool since I started spinning.
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<b>What was your biggest surprise when you purchased your first rare breed wool? </b><br />
No real surprises until I started SE2SE and realized how different the micron count, staple length, and softness or lack of there was.
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<b>Have you had any challenges purchasing wool directly from shepherds? </b><br />
Most have been prompt and very courteous about responding to either let me know how to order from them directly or where their online shop was, but there have been a couple that were private messaged on FB and never received a response.
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<b>What do you love most about working with rare breeds?</b><br />
The difference in texture requiring me to up my spinning skills to accommodate.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hap shawl in progress using the 15 breeds already spun</td></tr>
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<b>What is your favorite wool from sheep on the Conservation Priority List and why?</b><br />
I really, really love Jacob for its color variation on each fleece and it's crisp texture spinning and knitting, but Shetland is a close second.
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<b>What bit of advice would you give another fiber artists who is just starting to explore the world of rare breed wools?</b><br />
Don't feel like you have to do an entire raw fleece from each breed, try a few ounces from a couple of breeders as they will be different. Use undyed wool, it feels entirely different than dyed wools. This is an experiment to try different ones. A blanket or large shawl will allow you to use the single skeins you purchase or spin.
I am indebted to my friend and shepherd, Gail Groot who told me about this challenge last summer and let me know when it was about to actually start.
Deborah Niemannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10754242197245805551noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6538962589494796191.post-74927505241380235012019-03-29T07:25:00.000-07:002019-03-29T07:25:05.927-07:00Strengthening the farm-to-fashion supply chain<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_s4CClNDDmLSU-OKzEsgygNxyGdcysh5hQxA7C4tV3SZ0CmCTHXxPF-2xMZ3v6IRXstbtL2zY9PrnqFWbgWkRZVfR0jzpSdj4WB4T6371pj5kZMG3OBCDsYTGksYPIHOdfRilXJkJk6HJ/s1600/HVTP+logo+web+address.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="464" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_s4CClNDDmLSU-OKzEsgygNxyGdcysh5hQxA7C4tV3SZ0CmCTHXxPF-2xMZ3v6IRXstbtL2zY9PrnqFWbgWkRZVfR0jzpSdj4WB4T6371pj5kZMG3OBCDsYTGksYPIHOdfRilXJkJk6HJ/s320/HVTP+logo+web+address.jpg" width="309" /></a></div>
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<h2>
What is the Hudson Valley Textile Project?
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<b>Lilly Marsh, HVTP board member</b>: The <a href="https://hvtextileproject.org/" target="_blank">Hudson Valley Textile Project</a> is a 501 C 3 non-profit consortium of fiber producers, processors, artisans and consumers focusing on strengthening a farm-to-fashion supply chain here along the 250 mile Hudson River watershed. Our region has a growing farm-rural tourism industry primarily organized around food, but we are working to educate consumers (and producers) that fiber products can be seen as the same fusion between agriculture and creativity. Like the local food movement, local cloth touches on a range of consumer concerns including environmental concerns around sustainable land use and carbon sequestration, responsible animal welfare management, the support of small production and regional manufacturing jobs and capacity, a growing value among artisan fiber artists for local materials and processing, and a corresponding growth in consumer value for ‘slow fashion’ over disposable fast fashion models.
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We are a young organization as yet, but are currently offering a number of benefits to our members designed to assist them in connecting to retailers and consumers, including promotion on social media platforms, maintenance of a regional resource list, product hangtags identifying local production, a curated photo library for member use in their own promotional work, and organizational representation at selected craft and trade shows. We are currently exploring the idea of a sellers’ cooperative that would further knit local raw material production with processors and end users.<br />
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Our third annual meeting, March 20th at SUNY New Paltz, offered members an opportunity to network and show off their products, as well as bring themselves up to date on regional topics and collaborations. Our keynote speaker this year was Stephany Wilkes, sheep shearer and author of <i>Raw Material: Working Wool in the West</i>, and president of the Northern California Fibershed Cooperative.
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<h2>
<br />How do you work with shepherds?
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The HVTP organization offers the shepherd connections to those artisans and retailers interested in working with local wool and alpaca. Through those connections, a shepherd can begin to understand the needs and preferences of the fiber community. This can be a simple as offering a shepherd promotional space on our social media platforms, or a far deeper collaboration between members of the organization.
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One example of the deeper collaborations has been between Blue Pepper Farm, a high peaks area sheep dairy operation in Jay NY, and myself, the weaver at Lilly Marsh Studios. I became interested in developing a Hudson Valley studio yarn and had met Shannon Eaton, Blue Pepper’s shepherd, through the HVTP. I worked with her one afternoon 2017 on skirting her fleeces and helping her understand the aspects of her wool that would concern a fiber artist. That year, Shannon commissioned me to weave about 10 yards of fabric for her use. I was quite impressed with her wool and I purchased her entire 2018 clip. Her work in keeping the fleeces clean and in thoroughly skirting the 2018 clip was a strong supporting factor in that purchase. Her East Friesian dairy wool, blended with Little Creek Alpaca fiber (80/20 blend), and spun in a semi-worsted process, is making up into some stunning blankets and yardage for sewing, and I’ll be marketing them this summer and fall. They will also be featured in the fall issue of Ply Magazine, a handspinner’s publication. I am planning on purchasing her entire 2019 clip at this point.
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Collaborations of this kind develop over time and can grow out of the most informal of connections. As one of the weavers for the Battenkill Fiber Mill in Greenwich NY, I make myself available to shepherds who want to understand the milling and weaving process, and how to best present their wool into that process. Due to the conversations that Shannon and I had over the skirting table in 2017, Shannon’s work to keep contamination at a minimum throughout the year, and her excellent skirting in 2018, paid off. Her 2018 clip gave me an amazing 80% yield from raw weight to finished yarn on her fleeces, and made the $3 per pound price on the 32 fleeces well worth the investment.
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<h2>
Does a shepherd need to have a flock of a certain size before you will work with them?
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No. We are fortunate in our region to have a processor who is happy to work with very small batches (even a single fleece). Battenkill Fiber Mill acts as a central hub in our work as its commitment to the small producer allows for small flocks to foster their own yarns for sale at local markets and yarn shops. Mary Jeanne Packer, the mill owner, is very experienced in working with a wide variety of breeds, and in leveraging the entire production process to the end goal of the yarn.
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<h2>
Is there a profile of an ideal shepherd who works with you?
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Our shepherds are all very interested in marketing and selling their wool, and are often heavily involved in local farmers markets or their own on-farm shops for a variety of farm products. They are often either strongly connected to fiber arts themselves, or are at least quite knowledgeable about the field.
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<h2>
Are there any common misconceptions that you hear from shepherds?
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Shepherds who are not themselves fiber artists are often strikingly unknowledgeable about their wool and with unrealistic expectations of the milling process to transform it into vegetable matter free soft yarn. Vegetable matter and plastic threads are very difficult to remove from the wool once they are present. As the process moves on towards yarn and an end product, it becomes increasingly difficult to remove. As a weaver, I inspect my final cloth with tweezers, picking out visible pieces, but hours spent at that task greatly increase the cost of the final product. And I have refused to work with wool that is too contaminated as such yarn can damage my power loom, causing jams and misfires.
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To some shepherds, all yarn is the same, and they recognize little differentiation between a strong high twist sock yarn, a soft 3-ply baby yarn, or a woolen spun 2 ply for sweaters, or a fine worsted singles for weaving yardage. Wool is not interchangeable in suitability for specific purposes. If a shepherd has the chance to work with a fiber artist through your Shave ‘Em to Save ‘Em program, it is an excellent opportunity for the farmer to understand far more about their own wool’s properties for various end uses.
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<i>You can connect with Lilly on Instagram</i> @lillymarsh <i>or on her</i> <a href="https://www.facebook.com/lillymarshstudios/" target="_blank">Facebook page</a>.Deborah Niemannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10754242197245805551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6538962589494796191.post-74602851159194588012018-12-18T08:00:00.000-08:002018-12-18T08:00:00.313-08:00Shepherd profile: Cathy Payne, Gulf Coast Native<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<i>Photo credit: James L. Hicks</i></div>
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<i>This is the third in a series of Q&As with Livestock Conservancy members who raise sheep or have raised sheep for wool. The opinions expressed by the shepherds do not necessarily reflect those of The Livestock Conservancy. </i><br />
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<i>Cathy Payne raised Gulf Coast Native sheep </i><i> from 2011 to 2016</i><i> at Broad River Pastures in Elberton, Georgia, where she says, "summers are hot and humid. Winters are wet and mucky."</i><br />
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<h3>
Why should a breeder sell the wool from their sheep? </h3>
If raising a heritage wool breed, it is important to make selection decisions based on the quality of the wool so you are knowledgeable about your flock and the value of the wool. If you do not select carefully, the quality of your wool will suffer. I raised Gulf Coast Native sheep which were used for handspun and hand knit clothing as early as the 1500s. While the wool can be processed at a mill, I chose to work with hand spinners. I discovered that the wool was very prized by them for its softness, ease of cleaning, and ease of spinning. I listened to their comments regarding sheen, crimp, staple, and color. I selected breeding lambs with those traits in mind and culled heavily for a meat market. I also took data on lambing, ease of lambing, mothering abilities, hoof health, and vulnerability to worms. I trained in Famacha so I wormed only as needed. Sheep that required worming more than once per year were culled. I learned out to skirt fleeces for better value to spinners and to get top dollar.<br />
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Is it difficult to raise your sheep with an eye towards selling the wool? Why or why not? </h3>
Not at all. It added much joy to my flock. I did need to modify my hay feeder to avoid hay and seeds falling into the wool. However, living in the south I would never coat my sheep. It is too expensive anyway.<br />
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Why have you chosen to sell your wool as raw fleece, roving, yarn, etc rather than in a different form? Or why have you chosen to do all of the above? </h3>
I sold the occasional fleece raw. However, I got more value trading to spinners. They would keep a portion of a fleece and return the remaining portion washed, dyed, and spun or washed and spun without dying. Some would make wool balls or soap sacks. It was more profitable for me to sell a finished product. More people knit than spin.<br />
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What is one important thing you learned about sheep management as it relates to selling their wool? </h3>
See comments above about keeping fleeces clean and culling hard. Docking tails helps keep the hind fleece clean. Long tails and scours will make a mess. Bottle lambs have a higher incidence of scours.<br />
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<h3>
What is one surprising thing you learned about coating your sheep -- or having sheep that are not coated? </h3>
It can be a challenge to keep sheep clean but it is worth a minor effort.<br />
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<h3>
What is one important thing you learned about selling your wool? </h3>
Never under price, and market to people who appreciate a premium product. I got $16 a pound for fleece but $32 for 300 feet of 2 ply yarn, dyed.
At shearing, I kept all fleeces separate and labeled by the name of the sheep. When I packaged fleeces or yarn, they were labeled with the name of the sheep. Some customers would contact me annually to purchase “Luna’s fleece” or "Luna’s yarn." It was also a novelty to sell soap in soap socks with the name of and photograph of the sheep. Premium pricing!<br />
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<i>Are you a Livestock Conservancy member who sells your wool? Want to share your experiences? Email <a href="mailto:dniemann@livestockconservancy.org" target="_blank">Deborah</a> with your answers to the above questions, and you may be featured in an upcoming post.</i>Deborah Niemannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10754242197245805551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6538962589494796191.post-21057784223065843112018-12-11T08:00:00.000-08:002018-12-11T08:00:11.498-08:00Shepherd Profile: Miranda Tanis, Jacob Sheep<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioy9nfybrOKo0N3pIPH6Mf6xLTiLqP7OnUfbe5PohyizSBN2OQtGYZKGmc7C2qgNMrKVXxlckCokzUXhOTrAOxmHfzXCsP-KdQ59OIkigGz1l43fitqHzZXme8VxH1_UdeWKp9Sh100B_U/s1600/jacob+sheep.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="800" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioy9nfybrOKo0N3pIPH6Mf6xLTiLqP7OnUfbe5PohyizSBN2OQtGYZKGmc7C2qgNMrKVXxlckCokzUXhOTrAOxmHfzXCsP-KdQ59OIkigGz1l43fitqHzZXme8VxH1_UdeWKp9Sh100B_U/s400/jacob+sheep.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<i>This is the second in a series of Q&As with Livestock Conservancy members who raise sheep or have raised sheep for wool. The opinions expressed by the shepherds do not necessarily reflect those of The Livestock Conservancy.</i><br />
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<i>Miranda Tanis raises Jacob sheep on Howard Knit Knacks Farm in Tuscola MI. She has been a Livestock Conservancy member since 2009.</i><br />
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<h3>
Why should a breeder sell their wool?</h3>
Not only to promote the many uses of their breed, but also to give another job to the animal. Fiber can be used as stuffing, mulch, spinning, weaving, felting, knitting and such. The use of wool is not limited to just yarn and fiber arts.<br />
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Why have you chosen to sell your wool in the form you do?</h3>
I sell in raw, ready to spin, spun and finished item form. I chose these to showcase that Jacob wool can be used for many items. And because not everyone spins, knits or likes the smell of raw wool, no one feels left out from experiencing the greatness of natural fibers and Jacob wool.<br />
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What is one important thing you have learned about sheep management as it relates to selling their wool?</h3>
Feeding. Took me a few years, but I have learned where to hang the hay racks during the winter so they don't pull hay down or habit rain on their backs. Because I don't coat my flock, I need to keep them as VM free as I can from shearing to shearing. Pasture feeding 6 months or more a year help with that.<br />
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<h3>
Why not coat sheep?</h3>
I don't coat mine because the horns tear them easy. Or they might get caught on a strap. Also the cost of coats go up because you need a bigger size as the wool grows. BUT coats increase what your wool can be sold for, as it is cleaner and spinners like that.<br />
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<h3>
What is one important thing you learned about selling your wool?</h3>
You get out of it what you put in it. If you don't watch their feed, clean burrs from the pasture, don't cut evenly, don't skirt well, don't set the fleece on a clean surface, then you lower the top dollar you could ask for your fleece. And every fleece has value. The heavy VM pits could be set out for birds to build a nest, the poo tags can be used as mulch, second cuts can be stuffing. Wool that is not next-to-skin soft can create bags, coats, rugs, slippers, cushion covers, lap rugs, coasters, potholders, table runners. The list goes on and on and on.<br />
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<i>Are you a Livestock Conservancy member who sells your wool? Want to share your experiences? Email <a href="mailto:dniemann@livestockconservancy.org" target="_blank">Deborah</a> with your answers to the above questions, and you may be featured in an upcoming post.</i>Deborah Niemannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10754242197245805551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6538962589494796191.post-91578215849885844772018-12-04T08:00:00.001-08:002018-12-04T13:17:47.634-08:00Shepherd Profile: Cynthia Alby, Gulf Coast Native<div style="text-align: center;">
<i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6WWmtQWobNgth9P2Lv8G558hC6GlFKIirnDYkxNz6WfdTj0XZZakXPysXnUaBN8yZv5rFqG3cicJq0OenRzsGrGQqvtDodBHrYPD6-0SpYP0o6xspX_ppi8RJH8YUTVoUwclSN47j9TXI/s1600/Shepherd+profile_+Cynthia+Alby.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6WWmtQWobNgth9P2Lv8G558hC6GlFKIirnDYkxNz6WfdTj0XZZakXPysXnUaBN8yZv5rFqG3cicJq0OenRzsGrGQqvtDodBHrYPD6-0SpYP0o6xspX_ppi8RJH8YUTVoUwclSN47j9TXI/s400/Shepherd+profile_+Cynthia+Alby.jpg" width="400" /></a></i></div>
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<i>This is the first in a series of Q&As with Livestock Conservancy members who raise sheep for wool. The opinions expressed by the shepherds do not necessarily reflect those of The Livestock Conservancy.</i><br />
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<i>Cynthia Alby has been raising Gulf Coast Native sheep since 2003 on Shangri-Baa in Milledgeville, GA. </i><br />
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<h3>
Why should a breeder sell the wool from their sheep?</h3>
Because if you can't use it all yourself, you wouldn't want any to go to waste!<br />
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<h3>
Is it difficult to raise your sheep with an eye towards selling the wool? Why or why not? </h3>
I've found that most craftspeople aren't that obsessed about how clean or free of VM fleeces are - it all comes out in the wash! We literally do nothing differently than if we weren't planning on selling the wool.<br />
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<h3>
Why have you chosen to sell your wool as raw fleece, roving, yarn, etc rather than in a different form? Or why have you chosen to do all of the above? </h3>
So far we have sold our wool as raw fleece and also as items we make from it such as felted jewelry and dryer balls. Soon we will start experimenting with selling the yarn. When we sell things we make ourselves, it is pretty much pure profit. There is almost no cost associated with making dryer balls and very little cost associated with making felted jewelry or nuno-felted scarves on cheesecloth. These are always where we will have our biggest profits, but they do take time. But if you enjoy making things, then the time component doesn't matter so much.<br />
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<h3>
What is one important thing you learned about sheep management as it relates to selling their wool? </h3>
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Buy sheep with the best wool possible. Don't skimp on breeding stock! I don't know about other breeds, but Gulf Coast sheep run the gamut from exceptional wool to truly worthless wool. And make sure you have an exceptional shearer!<br />
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<h3>
Why do you coat your sheep (or not)? </h3>
No. We raise Gulf Coast sheep in the south, and they would be uncomfortably warm in coats in May or June when we are waiting for the shearer. Also, one of the premier fiber experts in the nation told me she thinks coats cause sheep to sweat and they also rub the ends of the fibers, both things that decrease the quality of the wool.<br />
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<h3>
What is one surprising thing you learned about coating your sheep -- or having sheep that are not coated? </h3>
I was surprised to learn that some experts advise against coating (which is good, because there was no way I was going to do that).<br />
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<h3>
What is one important thing you learned about selling your wool? </h3>
You need multiple venues. We've got a website, we're listed in the Conservancy index, we post on fleece for sale Facebook pages, we sell at a local farmers market, and we post on our farm's Facebook page. I probably spend about two hours a month total keeping up with all these and making sure they look good.
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<i>Are you a Livestock Conservancy member who sells your wool? Want to share your experiences? Email <a href="mailto:dniemann@livestockconservancy.org" target="_blank">Deborah</a> with your answers to the above questions, and you may be featured in an upcoming post.</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
<i>Learn more about The Livestock Conservancy's new Shave 'Em to Save 'Em program at <a href="http://www.rarewool.org/">www.RareWool.org</a>.</i>Deborah Niemannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10754242197245805551noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6538962589494796191.post-59842975417626983732018-09-07T10:00:00.000-07:002018-09-07T10:00:05.333-07:00Can you make money selling wool?<div style="text-align: center;">
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Although plenty of fiber fanatics take their hobby to a new level by deciding to raise their own sheep, some people raise sheep simply because they love the sheep. They have no idea what to do with the wool. I started raising Shetland sheep in 2003 because I was a knitter, and I wanted to be able to say that I knew the sheep that provided the wool for my scarf.<br />
<br />
But what if you simply fell in love with a breed for some reason other than fiber? And each year after shearing, you give away, compost, or otherwise discard the wool. Not only could that fiber provide you with another stream of income, but if you are raising a rare breed, you could also be providing a rare opportunity for fiber artists to work with the wool.<br />
<br />
Wool can be sold at various stages. Each bit of work you do increases the value. The following prices were all for fiber listed for sale on Etsy during the month of August 2018. Sellers may price wool by the ounce or by the pound, and some sell the entire fleece of a single sheep. To simplify the price comparisons, I figured out the price per pound for everything.<br />
<br />
<h3>
Raw fleece</h3>
You will get the lowest price for the wool if you sell it as a raw fleece, but that also represents the least amount of work. You simply need to skirt the fleece before selling which means you pull off obvious manure tags and large vegetable matter (VM). This should not take you more than about five or ten minutes for each fleece, assuming it's relatively clean. It is not a good idea to sell fleeces that have sticks or thorns in them or those that are caked with mud -- especially online when the buyer can't see the fleece before purchase.<br />
<br />
Raw fleeces from breeds on The Livestock Conservancy's Conservation Priority List averaged $16.63 per pound. Most ranged in price from $10 to $25 per pound with outliers as low as $5 and as high as $40 per pound. With raw fleeces, huge price variations may be due to the condition of fleece, meaning that the cheaper fleeces are not as clean and will require more work than the more expensive fleeces.<br />
<br />
<h3>
Washed fleece</h3>
By spending a couple of hours, a few gallons of water, and some detergent, you can increase the sale price of your wool. In the coming weeks, we will have more information on here about washing fleeces. Selling washed fleeces is not common, so if you decide to do this, you won't have a lot of competition. Most people sell fleece raw, as roving, or as yarn. It took me longer to find five washed fleeces from rare breeds on Etsy than to find twice as many options for roving or yarn.<br />
<br />
Washed fleeces were priced at $35 to $64 per pound with one Cotswold priced as high as $96 because the curly locks were being advertised as ideal to make doll hair or a Santa beard.<br />
<br />
<h3>
Roving</h3>
If you send your washed fleece to a mill to be run through a carding machine, it can be sold to hand spinners as roving. Felters may also purchase roving for their projects. You could buy a drum carder for a few hundred dollars, but it would take many hours to card an entire fleece, so if you have a lot of sheep, you probably want to have this done by a professional mill that has a large carding machine that can do a couple dozen fleeces per day. Prices to card washed wool vary from about $10 to $17 per pound.<br />
<br />
The average sale price per pound of roving from 11 different farms was $44.29, with prices ranging from $27 to $64 per pound.<br />
<br />
<h3>
Yarn</h3>
If you are a spinner yourself, or you want to have a mill spin your wool, you can sell it to knitters and crocheters for an even higher price than roving.<br />
<br />
The average price from eight different sheep was $80.32 per pound, which is almost twice as much as the price of roving and <b>five times</b> as much as the price of the raw fleeces!<br />
<br />
<h3>
Can you make money selling wool?</h3>
Even though you do have to put more work into it, or you have to pay someone else to create the value-added product, such as the roving or the yarn, you can still make money selling your wool. And you can make more money selling roving and yarn. When we raised Shetland sheep I sold my roving and yarn for more than double the price of the processing, which fell right into the average prices cited above.<br />
<br />
If you talk to shepherds who are breeding commercial sheep, you will probably hear that it is not profitable. But if you are willing to put a little effort into selling directly to consumers, you can definitely make a profit when selling wool from rare breeds of sheep.Deborah Niemannhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10754242197245805551noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6538962589494796191.post-71135588355208726722015-09-24T06:02:00.001-07:002015-09-24T06:02:23.811-07:00Starting turkeys<br />
A member writes us: <br />
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<i>Just wanted to let you know, in regards to Bourbon Red
turkeys. My Great Uncle has successfully
hatched his first batch of their eggs just this past summer. The hen had
problems with needing a lot of calcium for her shells. She laid a total of 11
eggs before brooding. 7 of the eggs hatched, but only 4 of the poults have
survived.</i></div>
<i>
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<br /></div>
<i>
</i><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP4QuZwMoNHsKAlkcownWMmviJwUJfcOMIUq04_u8LU3XNGkubwbRf5_vksSIykAFOMLHghXFIADmyMecYEdbZ7-9LvvfSCdt5gMxduSpooPn3hjBdWMKY-mGXiHSyCQ98cpIjKOoUW64/s1600/young+bourbon+red+toms+-+sm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP4QuZwMoNHsKAlkcownWMmviJwUJfcOMIUq04_u8LU3XNGkubwbRf5_vksSIykAFOMLHghXFIADmyMecYEdbZ7-9LvvfSCdt5gMxduSpooPn3hjBdWMKY-mGXiHSyCQ98cpIjKOoUW64/s320/young+bourbon+red+toms+-+sm.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Young Bourbon Red Toms - <i>Pho</i>t<i>o by J. Beranger</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<i>The hen stays in sight of her chicks at all times. We
first moved the newly hatched chicks to a small area with a heat lamp, where we
normally leave chicks until old enough for the juvenile cages. The hen was
greatly upset and would not calm back down until reunited with all her poults.
We lost several for unknown reasons.</i></div>
<i>
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<br /></div>
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<i>We have recently moved the poults, now about 4 or so
months old, to a juvenile platform cage where there is no heating lamp, but
there is shelter and they are protected from our juvenile chicks and pheasants.
The hen stays near them at all times, and will not move where she can't see
them.</i></div>
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<i>
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Hope this adds some information for your site.</span></i><br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Common sources of extra calcium include finely crushed oyster shell, egg shell, or bone. Heritage turkeys will often go broody and can hatch and raise their own poults like this hen did. They are conscientious moms, as you can see! Poults are harder to start than chicks, though, which may be why this member lost several. Watch over them closely for the first week to make sure they are drinking and eating. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">For more about raising turkeys, check out: </span><i><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"> <a href="https://app.etapestry.com/cart/livestockconservancy/default/item.php?ref=4237.0.28055763" target="_blank">"How to Raise Heritage Turkeys on Pasture"</a></span></i>Alison @ Livestock Conservancyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06794418741701202226noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6538962589494796191.post-44907061230252707182015-05-26T07:45:00.000-07:002015-05-26T07:45:49.387-07:00Protect your flocks<!--[if !mso]>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">As many of
you are aware, High Pathogenicity Avian Influenza (HPAI) is taking its toll on
poultry flocks across the United States. States in the Midwest have been hit
particularly hard and HPAI is still being detected on nearly a daily basis. The
outbreak started in the Pacific Migratory Bird Flyway in December and expanded
to the Central and Mississippi Flyways in March. Minnesota received the brunt
of April cases and Iowa is currently seeing the majority of detections. HPAI is
not limited to commercial flocks, and several backyard operations have been
infected, even in flocks with as few as 10 birds. No human cases of these HPAI
viruses have been detected in the United States, Canada, or internationally,
and in any event, transmission from birds to humans is extremely rare.</span><span> </span>The USDA and state departments of agriculture
have implemented a multi-state response plan to respond to this health crisis.<span> </span></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ4Njb3ZL525v0DvvM1aOxcPCddmZRJkl_3E5d4XH8aOlLtNWXsYvMWEV7Tfjd_1hYGtoKsS3846kz2a6v9-qM5MFdK3kDrIV8nfIl7BsqA-exmS82oQyFTtAcSgGdGw_r8IZdgNGOvNk/s1600/HPAI_Flyer_5_20_15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ4Njb3ZL525v0DvvM1aOxcPCddmZRJkl_3E5d4XH8aOlLtNWXsYvMWEV7Tfjd_1hYGtoKsS3846kz2a6v9-qM5MFdK3kDrIV8nfIl7BsqA-exmS82oQyFTtAcSgGdGw_r8IZdgNGOvNk/s320/HPAI_Flyer_5_20_15.jpg" width="247" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Do Heritage breeds of
poultry have stronger immune systems that will protect them from Avian
Influenza and other diseases?</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><u><span style="text-decoration: none;"><br /></span></u></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><u>On the pro side</u>:</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">- Research on heritage turkeys has shown stronger immune
systems in the heritage breeds</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">- The environment that most homestead flocks live in is
supportive to strong immune systems (for example, air quality is far superior
than for many intensively reared flocks)</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">- Smaller flocks, lower density, distance from large
farms, and less people-traffic to and from farms all help isolate homestead
flocks from potential sources of disease.<span>
</span>This is typically why small flocks experience less disease, is due to
less exposure.<span> </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><u><span style="color: black;">On the con side</span></u><span style="color: black;">:</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;">- HPAI is really deadly, so as
far as strong immune systems go, it's like comparing seasonal flu with the 1918
Spanish Flu</span></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPH6Dgm49dB0tXfkCoMQWA-kg5OtkfwCDc10wwU1ITiQuOqdAxt0A_U_0Z5dmNJy3fQm9EeCaxFgmsJUQb0lwLQAFCSjtfncv3wkCGscv0sf62ljZXh3Ad5GaoEkmd36bg6rPfQxgNOSA/s1600/Narraganset+hen+and+tom.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPH6Dgm49dB0tXfkCoMQWA-kg5OtkfwCDc10wwU1ITiQuOqdAxt0A_U_0Z5dmNJy3fQm9EeCaxFgmsJUQb0lwLQAFCSjtfncv3wkCGscv0sf62ljZXh3Ad5GaoEkmd36bg6rPfQxgNOSA/s320/Narraganset+hen+and+tom.jpg" width="225" /></a><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;">- Small flocks <i>have</i> been affected this year.<span> </span>The numbers look lower because the flocks are
smaller, and because small flocks tend to be more isolated which can help reduce
their exposure.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;">- The two methods of
transmission that have been a problem this year are wild waterfowl and
windborne dust from nearby commercial poultry farms, followed by transmission
by people.<span> </span>(Usually it's people then
waterfowl, and this is the first time wind has been an important factor.)</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><u><span style="color: black;">Actions for small flock
holders</span></u><span style="color: black;">:</span></span></span></div>
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<ul>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;">Flock owners should not rely
on better immune systems to keep their birds safe, any more than they would
with their kids.</span></span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;">Reduce chances for
exposure.<span> </span>This means keeping your birds
away from areas that attract migratory birds, such as farm ponds, and keeping
migratory birds away from your flocks (for example, excluding them from feeding
areas).<span> </span>The primary route of bird to
bird transmission is feces.<span> </span></span></span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;">Frequent rotation of pastured
poultry also helps reduce exposure.</span></span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;">If your farm is located in a
high risk state, and is within a few miles of commercial poultry operations, or
near fields that spray poultry waste as fertilizer, work with a veterinarian on
a good biosecurity plan.<span> </span>Biosecurity
resources can be found here:</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;"> </span></span></span></li>
</ul>
<a href="http://www.livestockconservancy.org/index.php/resources/internal/biosecurity"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;">http://www.livestockconservancy.org/index.php/resources/internal/biosecurity</span></span></span></a><ul>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;">Even if your farm isn't near
wetlands or commercial flocks, review your biosecurity and consider changes to any
practices that are most likely to put your flock at risk.<span> </span>Depending upon your farm, this could include
whether, when, and how new birds are added to the flock, limiting the areas
where farm customers can go on your farm, or even meeting other farmers and
customers at a neutral location. Places where other poultry farmers go, such as
feed stores, processing plant, or even the diner may be places where manure can
be picked up on shoes and taken back to your farm. If you or your kids exhibit
at fairs, practice lots of extra biosecurity and quarantine returning birds for
one month. </span></span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;">If you have spent years
selecting and developing the poultry in your flocks, are those genetics
replicated somewhere else?</span></span></span></li>
</ul>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The multi-state response to HPAI includes more frequent flock
testing, and outreach and education to backyard bird owners and hunters.<span> </span>Many states are conducting additional
biosecurity training for small flock owners; <span> </span>contact your livestock extension agent for
information. <span> </span>So far, only flocks that
were positively identified with HPAI have been depopulated.<span> </span>HPAI has a very high mortality rate, and it
is probable that most of the birds in these flocks would have died from the
disease, while serving as a reservoir of infection to wild and domestic birds
in the surrounding area.<span> </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Monitor your state Department of Agriculture’s news releases
for updates, and consider attending biosecurity training or consulting with
your veterinarian.<span style="line-height: 115%;"> Please
help do your part to protect your flocks and heritage breeds by reviewing these
materials and implementing a plan of your own.</span></span></span></div>
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Alison @ Livestock Conservancyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06794418741701202226noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6538962589494796191.post-7952402274581133022015-01-03T14:44:00.000-08:002015-01-03T14:44:16.157-08:00Protect your flocks<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyw7gGhYy9OY1qYGgO3E7aAxN0NnyCe1cqFd3wzBdf60ewjCmEnoy2lNuRwjTbkfm3Trpc6CDwmMelgMkZkwnmgFMGE0q9yGClM6WhXn4EomSI8w3ohy_twQ3Zg24ISCaA7E6KSVN2QdM/s1600/Mixed+Flock+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyw7gGhYy9OY1qYGgO3E7aAxN0NnyCe1cqFd3wzBdf60ewjCmEnoy2lNuRwjTbkfm3Trpc6CDwmMelgMkZkwnmgFMGE0q9yGClM6WhXn4EomSI8w3ohy_twQ3Zg24ISCaA7E6KSVN2QdM/s1600/Mixed+Flock+2.jpg" height="148" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo Credit: The Livestock Conservancy</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
News from the Pacific Northwest finds two poultry flocks have tested positive for Highly Pathogenic Avian Influenza (HPAI). Both were mixed species flocks on small farms - perhaps just like yours! HPAI is extremely serious and causes sudden and high mortality in affected poultry flocks. <br />
<br />
<br />
HPAI entered Washington and Oregon via wild waterfowl. The disease spreads from bird to bird, and in infected poop. If you live in WA or OR and wild waterfowl visit your farm, either exclude them from areas they are attracted to, or keep your own birds well away from these areas. (Oddly enough, Canada geese pose less of a threat than wild ducks.) Also be careful not to pick up wild duck poop on your barn boots. If you do, wash them in a mild bleach solution.<br />
<br />
Now is a good time to review and update your biosecurity plan. Biosecurity is the set of practices you follow to keep your animals healthy. Just as you wash your hands before eating to keep yourself healthy, there are basic things you can do to help keep pathogens such as HPAI away from your flocks. More information can be found here <a href="http://www.livestockconservancy.org/index.php/resources/internal/biosecurity" target="_blank">(biosecurity resources),</a> including links to USDA and CDC websites and a sample biosecurity plan.<br />
<br />
<br />Alison @ Livestock Conservancyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06794418741701202226noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6538962589494796191.post-82849386630048445062014-12-09T14:42:00.000-08:002014-12-09T14:42:08.620-08:00What should I do about my unregistered livestock?<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="color: #1f497d;">Today's mail brought a question that we see all too often. What happens when you've either bought livestock that were registered but never got the transfer paperwork, or lost the paperwork, or never registered their offspring? </span></div>
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<span style="color: #1f497d;">If you have purebred heritage breed livestock, it's worth looking into this a little harder. Just check out the small numbers of heritage animals registered each year, and you will soon realize the importance of keeping the genetics of your herd or flock contributing to the genetic diversity of the breed!</span></div>
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<span style="color: #1f497d;"><a href="http://www.livestockconservancy.org/index.php/heritage/internal/parameters-cpl" target="_blank">Conservation Priority List Parameters</a> </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Properly identified St. Croix sheep</td></tr>
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<span style="color: #1f497d;">The process of </span><span style="color: #1f497d;">recovering
the registrations </span><span style="color: #1f497d;">will take patience and persistence, and satisfaction is not guaranteed. The first step is to do some detective work and find as many records as possible about the registration status of your foundation animals. These are the sires and dams you started your herd with, and any new sires you've bought since. Dig into your barn records and find any paper records for the animals. Also find contact information for the
breeder(s) you originally bought stock from, and collect the individual ID’s on any animals that were registered. If you've lost the breeder's contact information, it might be available from the breed association, registry, or other breeders who bought stock from him/her. </span><br /><span style="color: #1f497d;"></span></div>
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<span style="color: #1f497d;">Once you have this information, call the registry, and throw
yourself at their mercy. Also call the original breeder, and ask if
he/she still has copies of the original registration paper for the foundation
stock. If you have ID and breeder information, ask the registry to forward a replacement copy of the original registration. You will probably need to pay for this, and they may insist on sending it to the original breeder. It's best if the breeder will cooperate with you to arrange to get those animals registered and/or transfered, but sometimes it's just not possible. Then you need to go back to the registry and/or the breed association and ask them what form of identification they would accept (photos, etc) to identify your animal and get it transfered.</span><br /><span style="color: #1f497d;"></span></div>
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<span style="color: #1f497d;">If you’re able to get your foundation breeders back in good graces
with the registry, then you can move on to registering their offspring, and
finally registering subsequent generations. This assumes you've kept records of parentage! Recovering registrations is a challenging process, but definitely worth your time for the good of the breed, and the additional bonus of selling your stock as purebred. If you can't get your animals back into the herdbook, your only option is to slowly add registered stock to your herd over time. Members can always contact the Livestock Conservancy for personalized advice. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #1f497d;"> </span></div>
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Alison @ Livestock Conservancyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06794418741701202226noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6538962589494796191.post-74298361687211475962014-09-23T13:36:00.000-07:002014-09-23T13:36:14.588-07:00Beltsvilles Get a Boost<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4-sbRbF0Jf67exawYLD6axPs0f4Nn3h93kdGzgDOCWiUUh_Jph-VyigHAn0ilX-DBIjGa2H8hEoQ23rk4NuwOyNtlLlj0AWyhC-mEC0njp7il4uGK9Q2gEiJ6rKtcNFTlhDjtjjq1_vE/s1600/Julie+Gauthier+and+Beltsvilles_small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4-sbRbF0Jf67exawYLD6axPs0f4Nn3h93kdGzgDOCWiUUh_Jph-VyigHAn0ilX-DBIjGa2H8hEoQ23rk4NuwOyNtlLlj0AWyhC-mEC0njp7il4uGK9Q2gEiJ6rKtcNFTlhDjtjjq1_vE/s1600/Julie+Gauthier+and+Beltsvilles_small.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Conservancy member Julie Gauthier with Beltsville Small White turkeys</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">This past spring, The Livestock
Conservancy was contacted by James Doster of the Southeast Poultry
Research Laboratory in Athens, GA regarding the Beltsville Small White
turkey. The laboratory has been keeping a closed flock of this variety
since the 1990’s and having read that the breed is listed as “Critical”
on the Conservancy’s <i>Conservation Priority List</i>, he was able to convince
the facility to allow eggs and eventually adult birds to be donated
into a conservation recovery program for the breed.</span><span style="font-size: 12pt;">The
Beltsville Small White was developed to fill a clearly identified
consumer need for a dressed bird (blood and feathers removed) without
dark pin feathers and weighing between 8 and 15 pounds. The U.S.
Department of Agriculture research center at Beltsville, Maryland,
therefore, began a breeding program between 1934 and 1941 to create a
bird that would answer the consumer demand for a bird that would be a
good fit for apartment sized refrigerators, small ovens, and small
families. Researchers developed the new Beltsville Small White variety
from a genetic foundation that included the White Holland, White
Austrian, Narragansett, Bronze, and Wild Turkey. The Beltsville Small
White turkey’s initial success was short lived and by the 1970’s it was
nearly extinct. Although considered a fine bird for family use, it was
less well received by the hotel and restaurant trade or by processors
that desired a larger bird from which they could obtain more “slices.”</span><br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/JHZC2Nleq9c" width="560"></iframe></span></div>
<br />
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">With
a major opportunity on hand to help the breed, The Conservancy jumped
into action on the recovery project and identified several members in
the region who would commit to the recovery program and work with us to
serve as new stewards for the breed. The first batches of hatching eggs
arrived at the Conservancy’s office this past April and together with a
nearby member, Julie Gauthier, we were able to hatch nearly 200 poults
which were distributed to 4 farms in the region.<br /><br />This past week,
we had an opportunity to receive 25 adult birds that were going to be
replaced next breeding season with a younger generation of birds. Staff
member Jeannette Beranger and Conservancy member Julie Gauthier made the trek to
Athens to collect 25 turkeys and bring them back to North Carolina where
they will be incorporated into the breeding flocks started with poults
from this spring’s hatch.<br /><br />This is a very exciting time for the
Beltsville Small White and we hope to make them once again, a favorite
for a smaller more intimate holiday table.<br /><br />For more information on the program contact Jeannette Beranger at <a href="mailto:jberanger@livestockconservancy.org">jberanger@livestockconservancy.org</a>.</span>The Livestock Conservancyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16073377918701443072noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6538962589494796191.post-33912372262286084752014-05-16T08:32:00.000-07:002014-05-16T08:46:32.171-07:00How another “expert” has been humbled<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi77xOwVEH4WQmfCneZps1O8-gVpfkz2C9FS0BdV6wkHDTm-0HAfEvZ4CbuCWVvjW-iaUgYsRQmH3FLYND88DkY6bvTbhALA99HJquOh6ro2c7-plIF6gOYOofFJWXrTUnGZ2TT79fEXMo/s1600/humbled-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi77xOwVEH4WQmfCneZps1O8-gVpfkz2C9FS0BdV6wkHDTm-0HAfEvZ4CbuCWVvjW-iaUgYsRQmH3FLYND88DkY6bvTbhALA99HJquOh6ro2c7-plIF6gOYOofFJWXrTUnGZ2TT79fEXMo/s1600/humbled-3.jpg" height="132" width="200" /></a>It’s not bragging to say that I have hatched tens of
thousands of eggs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I started raising
poultry in my teens.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In my junior year
of college I changed my major to poultry science, and everywhere I’ve worked
since, at least some of my duties were in the hatchery.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
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<br /></div>
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From 1996 to 2002 our small team incubated, hatched, and
raised chickens.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We hatched about 12,000
chicks a year, in batches from 100 – 2500. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Mostly we used reliable machines made by
Jamesway in the 1960s and 1970s, with a capacity of about 2500 chicken
eggs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We also used GQF hatchers, and
NatureForm Safari for incubation and hatch (wish I could afford one of those,
they are great). <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In later years, even
when I wasn’t hands-on for the whole process, I was setting eggs, candling,
pulling hatches and working with the hatchery team to troubleshoot.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I designed and built hatcheries, got them
started, assessed the ventilation in the room and in the machines.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It’s safe to say I considered myself an
expert.</div>
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<br /></div>
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So when a donor contributed funds to The Livestock
Conservancy in 2013 to buy an incubator and hatcher for our Java recovery
project<a href="http://www.livestockconservancy.org/index.php/what/internal/current-projects" target="_blank">(Java Project)</a>, I figured I had it covered.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Surprise!</div>
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiftRjMUmk3A9mxRn-a1gwaVk3-oZfgnVeXi2yNAdnHgsKVv26dyzHNoshXFR66RuEoDpEfiFut2VCAdl1edhvaYDvLdbLjxxHhGarIz4h-ZFtRngq3eIw8Z603NyN4-cvhpxJE6eBFbg/s1600/humbled-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiftRjMUmk3A9mxRn-a1gwaVk3-oZfgnVeXi2yNAdnHgsKVv26dyzHNoshXFR66RuEoDpEfiFut2VCAdl1edhvaYDvLdbLjxxHhGarIz4h-ZFtRngq3eIw8Z603NyN4-cvhpxJE6eBFbg/s1600/humbled-1.jpg" height="320" width="277" /></a>Maybe there’s a difference between breeds.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Mostly I hatched commercial broilers and
layers in my other jobs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We know that some of
the Java flocks don’t hatch as well as other breeds, but I’m afraid my results
with other breeds can’t be bragged about either.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Maybe it’s something to do with incubating in our small (to
me!) GQF Sportsman, which doesn’t have the insulation of the machines I used
before.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Also, I can’t dial in the
humidity on the Sportsman like I did on those other machines.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We’ll come back to that.</div>
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<br /></div>
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Right away it was clear that I needed to use higher humidity
in the hatcher than back in the “old days”.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>That has pretty much solved the issues with sticky chicks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But the incubation settings still aren’t
quite right.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
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<br /></div>
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I should say right off the bat that I have records.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And data.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We record the temperature and humidity twice a day, and I breakout and
stage all the unhatched eggs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That’s how
I was taught! </div>
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<br /></div>
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By the end of the 2013 season, things weren’t too bad, with
hatch-of-fertile above 80%.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was
still room for improvement in late-stage mortalities (just before transfer and
in the hatcher).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The humidity tends to run
about 54-56% during incubation, and based on the size of the air cell I think
that’s too high.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Our friend Gra in SC has
travelled this same path and suggested letting the water pan dry out completely
every few days. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That seems to help.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then we crank up the humidity in the hatcher
to avoid sticky chicks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Using that exact same settings in 2014, we’ve had two egg
sets so far.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This time we saw lots of
early deads (during the first seven days of incubation). <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And they’re hatching too early.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Maybe the incubation temperature is too
high?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We did pretty well with it last
year (99.8), but did tend to see early hatches. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Did we let the eggs get too warm during
storage?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><Deep frustrated sigh…></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Now we have a large group of turkey eggs in the
incubator.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I haven’t hatched turkey eggs
in years, so I asked what settings to use.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Both the breeder and our friend Julie in NC said, 99.5F and 54-62%
humidity.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It’s easier that the humidity
setting is closer to where it naturally wants to be.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But after candling Wednesday there were about
22% clear.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I went ahead and broke them
out, and again almost all had died in the first 7 days of incubation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is the largest group we’ve had in the
incubator at once, and I’m nervous.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
air cells are a little big.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Yesterday the
power went out for an hour and a half!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I won’t give up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Undoubtedly it’s good for me to eat some humble pie, and remember what
it was like to be a beginner.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Some days
I’m ready to pull my hair out.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Then we
get cute healthy chicks and I’m thrilled. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’m grateful to our friends and members who
have given me advice.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’m grateful for
my colleagues who haven’t sacked me (joke, ha, ha). <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I hover like a broody hen.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This _can_ be solved!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Are you working on a new or old problem, trying to master
some animal husbandry skill?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We are ALL
always learning, and always finding situations we’ve never encountered
before.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With persistence, advice,
patience, and humility, we’ll learn and improve.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Until the next new thing comes along!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi0sXsmRGAHJ0DaYxLpacDhVh4al0q21uQrSmjZwCic8E5XDudwpgMll6TpSMbk_HmS8SB0DR5Elxv9s46M3O7TWlWs4SWjpVIxdn29WJmUYf4a15WhF1XyKuAmD_IFfiR0lksXpG96HI/s1600/humbled-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi0sXsmRGAHJ0DaYxLpacDhVh4al0q21uQrSmjZwCic8E5XDudwpgMll6TpSMbk_HmS8SB0DR5Elxv9s46M3O7TWlWs4SWjpVIxdn29WJmUYf4a15WhF1XyKuAmD_IFfiR0lksXpG96HI/s1600/humbled-2.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
You can contact Alison at amartin@livetockconservancy.org</div>
Alison @ Livestock Conservancyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06794418741701202226noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6538962589494796191.post-68268505248146120332014-02-27T14:27:00.000-08:002014-02-27T14:27:01.901-08:00The Buck Stops Here<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">By: Leslie Edmundson</span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Reprinted from The Livestock Conservancy newsletter, Sept/Oct 2009. </span></i></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Leslie still breeds San Clemente Island and Spanish goats, and directs both breed associations. </span></i></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Last summer, I was sitting on my front porch,
honored by the company of some real animal experts. As I am a ‘backyard’ goat
breeder with only five acres, it didn’t take long before my small herd of San
Clemente Island goats paraded by, the first few coming to check out the
visitors, the rest just following the leaders of the herd.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfJ_-eWXfrHfw6_2N_4rHK8F9zUVLx-Egdpj4uDfYt1YIXDwqdByS5cs7qWb8g-c03CFKRaM7rUaZnOtOhH1WYzmmzC9NgDtaH5_YLjP1sDYB-ryJpJT3rP2_4NSVfCxSs7tJhKcvK7us/s1600/sanclemente.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfJ_-eWXfrHfw6_2N_4rHK8F9zUVLx-Egdpj4uDfYt1YIXDwqdByS5cs7qWb8g-c03CFKRaM7rUaZnOtOhH1WYzmmzC9NgDtaH5_YLjP1sDYB-ryJpJT3rP2_4NSVfCxSs7tJhKcvK7us/s1600/sanclemente.jpg" /></a><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">My senior buck passed by with a couple of
does. Then along came my junior buck. It was only then that the Expert Goat Guy
spoke up: “Nice buck,” he said. Sure, my junior buck, young as he is, is
really flashy. “Yeah,” I replied, “but he’s as dumb as a box of rocks.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And this is where I met my crossroads. . .
the goat guy said, “So?” As if animal intelligence didn’t really matter in the
breeding business.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">It was then that I really understood the
impact that an expert can have on a novice breeder. And it was also then that I
understood the impact that a stubborn novice breeder can have on a breed.
Believe it or not, both can be good. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">I have been fortunate enough to work with
breeders of two breeds of goats. Both breeds are of Spanish origin, but San
Clemente Island goats (population 600) were stuck on an island for a while, and
are therefore genetically very different from their landrace cousins, Spanish
goats (population 12,000). (<i>note: since this article was published, DNA testing showed that San Clemente Island goats were not of Spanish origin, to everyone's surprise!)</i></span><br /><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Spanish goats are a hardy breed that survived
for 500 years without vets or shelter. Most of them still do. They used to be
America’s meat goat until Boer goats arrived in the 1990’s and most ranchers
ditched their Spanish to get Boers. Boers are very showy and muscle-bound. As a
well-fed, show ring goat, a Boer can be bigger than life. Spanish have a more
‘rangy’ look. The sudden popularity of Boers is why Spanish almost went
extinct. Most Boers are enormous. Most Spanish are not. It’s like comparing
elephants to tigers.</span></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJU5A754wS6VjcSqi3Otk_51orGcDipJdV128YbuKwLcGq68L-ETJ-61Xukc5NYZDZpb3YTOpIv7WYuAuSvzwgS35eFUnsu-580yBVLhUKOX3cR6kJZ0eNwQn4N8VT6YpPLagvxzk60Dk/s1600/Spanish1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJU5A754wS6VjcSqi3Otk_51orGcDipJdV128YbuKwLcGq68L-ETJ-61Xukc5NYZDZpb3YTOpIv7WYuAuSvzwgS35eFUnsu-580yBVLhUKOX3cR6kJZ0eNwQn4N8VT6YpPLagvxzk60Dk/s1600/Spanish1.jpg" height="228" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Interest in Spanish goats is increasing with the growth of the goat meat industry and with increased recognition of the breed's production qualities. Spanish goats are hardy and rugged, thriving on rough forage and in difficult environments. Photo by Phil Sponenberg.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">However, it turns out that most Boers are fed
a lot (hence the steroid look) and often need support to survive worms or raise
kids. (Spanish have no trouble with these things.) Most Spanish are free-ranging,
and therefore cheaper to keep and not as fat. Also, it seems that Spanish just
hold muscle differently; just as heritage-breed chickens might look a little
small but have a lot more to them than modern breeds. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Dr. Richard Browning (Tennessee State
University) recently confirmed what many have suspected for years: he found
that if they’re raised on the basic farm forage, Spanish goats are meatier than
Boers, but they just carry it differently. Spanish may look a bit rangy, but
they’re meaty as heck. Raise them in the same field with the same food, and
there’s more meat on a Spanish goat than on a Boer. But when similarly-raised
goats are bought by slaughterhouses, they are still graded according to
looks—Boer hefty-forefront wins, Spanish long-body loses. Beauty is in the eye
of the beholder: slaughterhouses end up paying more for less, judged on looks
alone. </span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">But from this small snippet of learning comes
a more difficult challenge: ALBC (<i>now The Livestock Conservancy!)</i> wants to focus on Master Breeding, but what
exactly should a Master Breeder be looking for?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>If a Master Breeder were to look for what end-buyers are currently
looking for, we’d all have abandoned the heritage Spanish and we’d be stuck
with the predominantly non-hardy modern alternative, with less meat for the money.
Both buyers and Master Breeders use their eyes. How is it that they see so
differently from each other?</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Let’s digress to San Clemente Island goats.
Once again, we have a breed that survived alone without a vet or breeder for
half a millennium or so. Stuck on an island with no water for a few months out
of every year, the removed goats had the prickly-pear cactus scars to prove
their desire to survive. With a new record mainland total of 400 goats
globally (2009), and a portion of those in Canada with no hope of border-crossing, the
ability of breeders to keep the genetic diversity going is pretty slim. But San
Clemente Island goat breeders are meeting with success. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">What do San Clemente Island goat breeders
breed for? More than just survival, they do in fact breed for other things.
Very diverse things. Some breeders focus on dairy abilities, some on meat
potential, some on color, some on horns. Some breeders do not tolerate worms,
some never heard of mineral salts in 20 years of breeding. Some will raise a weak
kid in the kitchen, some will let a weak kid die in the field. The population
is extremely limited, but with every new birth still comes the necessary and
individual decision: keep, sell, or cull.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Every San Clemente Island goat breeder is
encouraged to set strong breeding goals and strategies, but every breeder must
decide his own goals for himself. So far, the group is so eclectic that the mix
strongly fosters genetic diversity. There are no Master Breeders for San
Clemente Island goats; there are no ‘best’ herds. There is no ‘perfect’ San
Clemente Island goat in any breeder’s eye that would necessarily appeal to the
eye of another breeder. Yet they will survive.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Spanish goats face some of the same type of
variance, but there is a little less variance and much larger herds. Some
breeders breed for cashmere, some breed it out. Some go for large size, some
prefer a smaller goat for their particular range. Some like varied colors, some
prefer uniformity. As Spanish goats became more rare in the 1990’s, breeders
became more isolated, and we ended up with a variety of strains. Varied strains
are a great thing. They are the genetically-diverse gene pool that we are
conserving for our future needs. And we already need them.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">So where do Master Breeders fit into this?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">When you learn from a Master Breeder, be
prepared to learn about soundness. You can learn about strengths that are
particular to your heritage-breed animal, and how to spot an animal’s potential
for weakness. Does a wide horn-spread indicate growth potential, or does a
hen’s skin color indicate laying ability in <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">your</i>
breed? Your Master Breeder can point out things that perhaps you hadn’t thought
about. After all, they’ve known the breed for years. They understand the
animals in question, and can see how your herd can reach its full potential.
Although some Master Breeders are just ‘naturals’ who learned just from a few
decades of close attention to their flock, more often they learned it from
generations of raising one particular breed. Their selection strategies are not
mainstream, they’re streamlined to your type of endangered livestock.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">However, your Master Breeder is not
necessarily selecting for the same things that you are. If we all breed for the
same traits, we will reduce the genetic diversity of our livestock. We would
all end up with one strain, managed in the same way, bred for the same
particular attributes. You can learn a lot from a Master Breeder, but it’s
alright to walk away with many of your own and different goals intact. That’s
what strains are all about. Genetic diversity relies on your ability to keep
your great livestock going, and to go against fashion sometimes. Your Master
Breeders did that: that’s why they maintained a heritage breed in the first
place. They want you to learn, but they want you to learn as an individual
breeder seeking new skills, not as a follower of fashion. Form your own
breeding objectives, communicate your needs, and a truly great breeder will
help you accomplish your conservation goals.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">So what if my junior buck is as dumb as a box
of rocks? </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">When I turn on my truck's ignition, my goats have three seconds to get out of the way with babies intact. Any goat not answering to its name does not get checked regularly for worms. Every goat has to learn about toxic plants the hard way. And unless a buck is quick-witted, he'll never get past my clever senior buck to get the opportunity to breed. </span><br /><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">“So?” So maybe the Goat Expert recognized
that. If my junior buck doesn’t live up to my particular breeding program, he’ll
probably cull himself. My methods and objectives may not be popular, but that’s
just the way we breed them here. And my herd will survive.</span>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span></span></i></div>
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<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Many
thanks to Dr. Richard Browning, who has contributed greatly to the renewed popularity
and conservation of Spanish goats just by focusing research efforts on the
comparative performance of different goat breeds.</span></i></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">For more information about Spanish goats,
contact: Spanish Goat Association, 3037 Halfway Rd, </span></i><i><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;"><i><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">The Plains, VA<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>20198</span></i>, spanishbreeders@gmail.com<a href="mailto:postmaster@spanishgoats.org"></a>, <a href="http://www.spanishgoats.org/">www.spanishgoats.org</a>.</span></i></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">For more information about San Clemente
Island goats, contact:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>San Clemente
Island Goat Association, 3037 Halfway Rd, The Plains, VA<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>20198, <a href="mailto:postmaster@scigoats.org">scigoats@gmail.com</a>, <a href="http://www.scigoats.org/">www.scigoats.org</a>.</span></i></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVYj7bJK-Stitne6VYXPlKkdkUe1Ruah2SjPdDjm22pXDPpfNoz791c9M7dLe4cH4rSHEjqCQW0gzMbBQOp7G1Od1V4pooD9lsV78AufmtRKWlegY4ggY9bV-O5tizt06lZ0HlnEKKj6w/s1600/SanClemente3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVYj7bJK-Stitne6VYXPlKkdkUe1Ruah2SjPdDjm22pXDPpfNoz791c9M7dLe4cH4rSHEjqCQW0gzMbBQOp7G1Od1V4pooD9lsV78AufmtRKWlegY4ggY9bV-O5tizt06lZ0HlnEKKj6w/s1600/SanClemente3.jpg" height="294" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Every San Clemente Island goat breeder is encouraged to set strong breeding goals and strategies, but every breeder must decide on their own goals - based on education, sound breeding practices, and advice from others in the field. Photo by Leslie Edmundson of a young San Clemente buckling.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Alison @ Livestock Conservancyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06794418741701202226noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6538962589494796191.post-1760143462873797162014-02-06T13:37:00.001-08:002014-02-06T13:37:30.124-08:00Selecting for beef conformationLove this blog post by Jeremy Engh, a master level breeder of Devon cattle. It's titled "Legs and Feet", and here's a picture of his bull stud. Jeremy raises 100% grassfed and grass finished cattle in Virginia.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.lakotareddevons.com/articles/legs-and-feet/" target="_blank">http://www.lakotareddevons.com/articles/legs-and-feet/</a> </span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.lakotareddevons.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/bull-stud-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://www.lakotareddevons.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/bull-stud-5.jpg" height="212" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />Alison @ Livestock Conservancyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06794418741701202226noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6538962589494796191.post-31071725522325842252014-02-05T13:57:00.001-08:002014-02-05T13:57:58.591-08:00Flavor from heritage pork<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red Wattle Sow</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: #1f497d; font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif";"> </span></span><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://dubaandcompany.com/" target="_blank">Jeff Duba</a></span> </span><span style="color: #1f497d; font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-themecolor: dark2;">asked us,</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">(1) Are there heritage pig breeds that are regarded as
producing exceptional meat?</span></div>
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</span><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 12pt;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">(2) Are the breeds listed on
the Conservation Priority List the only breeds that are considered
"heritage"? I keep bumping into farmers who say that their Duroc or
their Kurobuta pork is a heritage breed. And I notice that Heritage Foods USA
lists Berkshires in their pork product offerings.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #1f497d; font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-themecolor: dark2;"></span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGsoiY-n9fhPI-nNsk-_WlSiYH_Tu5bEmByrgIGy_uoef5P9R_dsLlvpglLLDiBIH5OpltpN_peq7SFK47HO__wncJwra_cPnlqM1L-ChSm72fPs5NFByk3XnwOg6kv18IV53Fj2-JIW8/s1600/mulefoot.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGsoiY-n9fhPI-nNsk-_WlSiYH_Tu5bEmByrgIGy_uoef5P9R_dsLlvpglLLDiBIH5OpltpN_peq7SFK47HO__wncJwra_cPnlqM1L-ChSm72fPs5NFByk3XnwOg6kv18IV53Fj2-JIW8/s1600/mulefoot.jpg" height="145" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mulefoot sows </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="color: #1f497d; font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-themecolor: dark2;">With the pork, the first big dividing line in flavor is confined and grain
fed vs. pastured.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The second dividing
line is fatter vs. leaner.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The breeds on
our list are old fashioned and have more lard and marbling than the modern
breeds.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They’re also slower
growing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Slower growing, pasture raised pigs are more flavorful, and that difference is especially noticable in the fat. Studies have also shown the meat and fat of pasture raised pigs to be more healthy, with higher levels of vitamins and heart healthy fatty acids. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #1f497d; font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt;">There are differences between breeds, and once upon a time
breeds were known as bacon breeds vs. lard breeds. The long, lean breeds
were bacon breeds. The bacon breeds have fat, but are thinly muscled (Ironically, today’s Berkshire is long and lean, but
in the early 20<sup>th</sup> century it was known as a lard breed. Look at
the old pictures, it is quite a change!). </span></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge31bB102ApEjUyJ6odaFv4UQXD6NBBKWurdpYtZnjsPgEPDYVJNPSURsRNh5Yde5zx_XaIsgRN6FJvTD05YYSqG5P6AWK9WZ-tIrKjwEE4O1sDqQ1FNC0GfRUr_2m2GEYvdawRskvBdU/s1600/ossabaws.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge31bB102ApEjUyJ6odaFv4UQXD6NBBKWurdpYtZnjsPgEPDYVJNPSURsRNh5Yde5zx_XaIsgRN6FJvTD05YYSqG5P6AWK9WZ-tIrKjwEE4O1sDqQ1FNC0GfRUr_2m2GEYvdawRskvBdU/s1600/ossabaws.jpg" height="200" title="Ossabaw pigs" width="160" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">young Ossabaw pigs</td></tr>
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<span style="color: #1f497d; font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Of the breeds on our list, <i>in general,</i> Red Wattle and Tamworth
are leaner, with Tamworth well deserving of its reputation as a
bacon pig (yum). Large Black and Gloucestershire Old Spots are
also considered bacon pigs, but have more lard than American consumers are
accustomed to (also delicious). </span><span style="color: #1f497d; font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Mulefoot and Ossabaws can go either way, it depends a lot on management. If not managed properly, they can gain too
quickly and get fat. </span><span style="color: #1f497d; font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Guinea Hogs are very much a lard breed,
with abundant and firm lard that is perfect for charcuterie. Herefords
are similar in conformation to modern breeds, and have good sized hams. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #1f497d; font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Berkshires are not endangered and therefore not heritage by our
definition, but are being widely used for pastured pork and do well in that
scenario. Sometimes you’ll find pastured Duroc too. (See dividing
lines, above.)</span></div>
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<span style="color: #1f497d; font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt;">Two references we like are: </span></div>
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<span style="color: #1f497d; font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt;">“Homegrown Pork” by Sue Weaver.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #1f497d; font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt;">“Lard” by the Editors of Grit Magazine. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #1f497d; font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt;">The recipes are guaranteed to make you smile!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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Alison @ Livestock Conservancyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06794418741701202226noreply@blogger.com0